Chimney Leaking

[Martin Quinn]

Hi,

When I moved in my house 3 years ago the survey pointed out a small shadow in then plaster on the chimney breast in the kitchen. Well 3 years later and the shdow is double in size and the paint has started to bubble.

I am guesing that the chimney is letting in water and I was wondering what it would cost to re-point the chimney and repair the leading? I understand this may cost more if scaffold is needed, but what is an average cost for an average size chimney on a 3 bed semi?

Also, whether is better just to bring the chimnet down and cap it at the roof and roof tile over it?

Thanks,
Martin.

 

[vinn]

If at all possible always retain chimney breasts and esp. chimney stacks and pots.
What was the surveyors explanation for the "small shadow"?
You dont know the cause so dont jump the gun.
Photos of the stack and the interior bubbling chimney breast would help.

 

[Martin Quinn]

I actually have two chimney stack in my house, one in the living room and the other in the kitchen.

It is the one in the kitchen and outhouse that is leaking. The pictures show how the brick has eroded in the outhouse due to the damp I presume, and the paint is also bubbling in the kitchen on that same wall.

I have taken some shots of the stack as best I can, hopefully these give a better idea of what is happening

Thanks.

 

[vinn]

Your photos are confusing.
Is this correct:
You have damp signs on two chimney breasts: one c/breast in the kitchen/outhouse ie. the bare brick wall with penetrating salts stains, and one in the living room ie. with the inset fire appliance.
The stack photo belongs to the living room chimney breast which is an external chimney breast.

Both flues in question should be opened and swept (so should any other flues in the property).
All flues must be ventilated at the top and the bottom.
Where the plaster has bubbled it must be hacked off to about 1m ht and replaced with a sand & lime mix. The skirting should be removed, and its possible that the old fireplace was filled with rubble up to the inset.

The stack in the photo needs a little attention at the corbelled brick ledges - and and cement fillets will allow rain run off and prevent any plant growth.
The flashband must be replaced with lead flashing.
The pointing & the stock brick looks to be in good condition.

All solid floors should have a DPM (membrane) or moisture might penetrate the concrete floor. You dont appear to have a membrane .

Is the outhouse c/breast on a party wall - or can you take a photo of the outside wall and stack?

 

[Martin Quinn]

All the photos are from the same chimney. One face of the chimney is in my kitchen, with the other face in the outhouse.

There doesn't appear to be any air breaks or damp proof membrane, house was built in 1937.

 

[datarebal]

looks like a chemical dpc might be in place ..partially anyway

 

[vinn]

OP, Now you tell me!

The moisture on the floor in photos 2 & 3 can only be investigated by opening up the old fireplace: the one thats been bricked up - it can be seen at the RH side of photo 3.

There are only two pots on the (what looks like a) two flue stack but if you have had two flues from the GF whats happened to the flue from the first floor bedroom?

Is the floor in photos 4,5 & 6 solid or suspended?

The DPC injection holes are irrelevant - any chemical is obviously not working. In 1937 all properties would have had mechanical DPC's.

 

[datarebal]

"partially anyway"
Brickwork has obviously be cut out and replaced previously for investigation from the rear by the looks.
Bold statement to say ALL buildings had a mechanical dpc in 1937..not quite so.