Chromed steel light switch on oak

[Secret_Sipper]

Currently on with a project which entails oak boards, 2 side lights with integrated switches. I've posted before about tanning marks on Oak window boards before but in my haste I've bought these flush chromed fascia.

I'm looking at sinking them flush to the board like below (I'm currently making the routing template) so you should get the idea. Is there anyway of putting some type of resin inbetween the chromed plate and the wood to create a seal or barrier between them so they don't react with each other?

Cheers

 

[KenGMac]

markyb555, good evening.

OK an off the wall concept?

How about you consider using Plastic "Look Alike" face plates?

Ken.

 

[Secret_Sipper]

If there is such a thing as a chromed plastic face plates switch I'd go with that!
The sockets are all the slightly beveled white mk ones but if I'm honest, the bedside cabinets are white oak with stainless draw handles (after trying them with a magnet of course) and it just went together really well without giving it too much thought

 

[big-all]

how thick are the face plates ??
you need the radius on the face back to be forward of the cut edge to look right or perhaps the similar radius on the cut face to fit flush
you do realize with a router on a template you cannot do the tight corners on your switches to the switch radius unless the same radius as the switch as the cutter size dictates the corner radius

 

[Secret_Sipper]

I used the supplied 6mm cutter which is excatly the right radius for the face plate that came with the switch.
I planned on hollowing out the middle in a sense and sinking the face plate into the wood to make them flush.

I've looked at b&q for switches which have stainless steel face plates but are of a steel structure behind. The switch I have is plastic with a grounding link to both screws and earth. My wickes have a shocking range for anything g other the white. So if anyone can point me in the right direction, I'd be grateful.

I'd also be interested to see the plastic lookalike steel face plates to see if they fit the bill. Failing that, I might have to go back to the original plan and put white plastic mk switches on. :/

 

[Chud]

I just recently discovered plasti-dip - if you get a junior can of it (in clear) it should do what you want if you paint a thin layer of it in the recess.

http://www.plastidip.co.uk/product/junior-can-250ml

 

[Secret_Sipper]

Thanks for the heads up on the plasti dip stuff. Quite expensive but should put enough of a barrier on the wood if needed.
After much thought, I'm gonna see if I can swap the switches out at screwfix for a set I've seen that doesn't have any steel touching the wood.

Alot of the problem is manufacturers bill there items as stainless steel, when actually it's the colour not the material. Some Schneider electric stuff looked to fit the bill but slightly put off with there brand name on the bottom.

The ones I'm looking at are a slightly different shape so I'll have to redo my jig, but no biggy. Rather find out now than 12months when the tannin has didcoloured