Circular saw safety

[Deleted member 174758]

I was told you can cut the bottom of a door in situ with these? Really? I don't see how it can get to the extreme edges without cutting the casing.

You either need a Multitool or a Japanese flooring/undercut saw to finish the cut:

or you run the risk of hitting the door casing with the saw, even if the door is propped open. It's hard enough keeping the saw on the rail and the rail on the door, especially when you are doing multiples. A proper Crane or Roberts jamb saw seems a better proposition as they register off the floor itself

 

[JayJay1978]

Thanks J&K, I cant see myself doing it TBH I'm happy removing them and taking outside.

 

[JayJay1978]

I need a 900 track and see there is a Festool one but does it have the Makita lock groove in it?
I don't think Makita do a 900mm track?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Only the Makita track has the groove lock in it - it's their USP (unique selling point) - Festool rails don't have this feature. Rail length is always a bit of a contentious issue - the standard lengths supplied by Makita are 1400mm and 3000mm, so if you want anything else it's a case of taking an existing rail and sawing it to length on your chop saw. I did work with one guy who bought himself a 3 metre Makita rail and cut it into "bespoke" lengths (something like 1m and 2m from memory) and I got myself a 1m rail by trimming the ends off a dinged and dented Festool 1400mm rail which had seen better days.

 

[big-all]

i am a tart and because i need some fairly odd lengths to cut 8x4 boards cupboard doors and room doors in confined spaces i have cut a 1500 into a 850+650 to cut doors and cupboard doors and unit bases
i have another one cut to 1000+500mm +another full 1500mm
this gives me 500+650+850+1000+2x1500
now if you now add a joiner and 2 bits together you can get
3000+2500+2350+2150+2000+1850+1650+1500+1350+1150+1000+850+650+500
i wont bore you with the extra combinations possible with another joiner and the other full length allowing a combination but with 3 joined lengths
but in general you only need two or a maximum 3 sections to give you the combination from the job in hand all from 4x1500 rails

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Similar to you B-A (but maybe not as extreme), I have a 3000mm rail, 2x1400mms and a 1000mm which gives me all the lengths I need - having a short length has it's plusses, but I sometimes find the 1000mm is a tad too long so I may cut that one down further to say 800mm (to give 800, 1400, 2200, 2800, 3000, 3800 and 4400 with any 2 rails joined).

Because I have the older TS55 my saw can't be run across the bottom of a door (the dust outlet gets in the way) but then I don't often trim door bottoms (at the moment)

 

[JayJay1978]

I'm using my brand new Makita track saw on dry 18mm plywood to cut a loft hatch and the blade is burning the wood, should I be on full speed?
I'm not pushing it too fast I don't think.

 

[big-all]

blade on back to front ??
remember the blades rotate anticlockwise from the blade face to cut up onto the track at the front

 

[JayJay1978]

Blade on correct BA, it cut the breakfast bar a treat, maybe I should turn the speed down.

 

[big-all]

chipboard can knacker blades quite quickly
maybe feed rate a bit slow??
on 18mm high speed fast feed rate but not dangerously mad
is the offcut as well as the full board well supported so it dosnt bind on the blade ??

 

[JayJay1978]

Thank you BA, all done now.