clad beam in Oak, advice please

28 Jun 2005
Reaction score
United Kingdom
Hi I have a steel beam with rough timber each side and I would like to clad it in Oak to match other Oak bits I have done in our house, which is basically smooth light American/European Oak with a chamfered/routed edge.

The beam is approx. 3.4m long and the existing beam size to cover is about 16cm x 16cm.

I was thinking of getting 3 planks of Oak about 25mm thick but I don't want it to be obvious it is 3 planks, I would like it to look like a proper single beam.

I was going to drill holes for screw fixings so I can fix it to the existing rough beam and then plug the holes with Oak plugs, I have some of the right type to match.

Can anybody give me any tips, i.e. best way to do it and best way to hide the fact it is 3 planks rather than a solid beam?

Should I put the bottom piece inside the 2 uprights or cover the bottoms of the 2 uprights by placing the bottom so it covers the bottom edges of the uprights to get the best look?

I will chamfer the edge of the relevant piece/pieces before I fit it up, for ease.

Incidentally I am after a smooth Oak finish not a rough dark pub like one, so I always plane and sand to achieve that, just thought that worth mentioning for a mental picture.

Any help info appreciated.
Sponsored Links
The right way to hide the rather obvious grain at the corners is to make a mitred corner, preferably with either biscuits or a glued loose tongue to support the joint. It does require a decent table saw or somethong like a Festool saw to achieve this, however
If you don't have the tools mentioned by j&k then probably be best to have the timber machined by a professional and then you do the fitting.
If you are chamfering or moulding the timber then you could get away with not mitring . Fit the bottom piece first leaving the edges square. Incidentally you can use metal angle plates to fix the bottom piece , saves fixing through the face and the plates are hidden by the side pieces. Now to the side pieces. Personally I'd use something like an ovolo mould rather than a chamfer with the edge of the moulded side piece kept up from the lower face of the bottom timber so that the joint between the two timbers is actually a line of the moulding . Hope that makes sense.
Sponsored Links
Thanks guys, so can I assume you guys think 25mm thick is about right for this purpose?
i assume you mean ex 1" that will be around 20-21mm planed then yes
will also come up as 165-169 if its ex 7" so again fine

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.

Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local