The lath and plaster is very tired on a ceiling and I'm going to create a new artificial plasterboard ceil,ing supported by the joists. I'm thinking of using 2 by 2 rafters across the ceiling joists and attaching the plasterboard to this, but will 2 incehs clearance be enough to fit recessed ceiling lights?
Clearance required with artificial ceiling for spotlights
- Thread starter sarahw
- Start date
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no.
and this might be better in the electrics forum..
just pull the old lath and plaster down and replace with plasterboard..
you're adding a lot of weight to the ceiling doing it this way..
and this might be better in the electrics forum..
just pull the old lath and plaster down and replace with plasterboard..
you're adding a lot of weight to the ceiling doing it this way..
Just screw the plasterboard to the existing joists through the existing lath and plaster and then have the plasterboard skimmed.
Unless the plaster is coming away from the laths this is the easiest and least messy way to repair the ceiling.
Unless the plaster is coming away from the laths this is the easiest and least messy way to repair the ceiling.
Nope, it wont be enough.
However, If you don't wan to pull the whole ceiling down and you know where the lights are to be positioned, why don't you cut out appropriate sections from the L&P and fit FR DLs into your replacement ceiling.
However, If you don't wan to pull the whole ceiling down and you know where the lights are to be positioned, why don't you cut out appropriate sections from the L&P and fit FR DLs into your replacement ceiling.
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Sounds like a good plan - what are FR downlights?
THe only thing that put me off is that the loft above is lagged and I'd need to create some space into the lagging to ventilate the lights.
WHat sort of clearance should most low voltage lights need above them?
Fire-rated. required if you are mounting on a combustable surface eg laths
Depends on the downlights. The manufacturer will specify the space required above and to the sides of the fitting.
FR = Fire Rated.. waste of time according to some..
only needed if the ceiling is part of a fire barrier..
only needed if the ceiling is part of a fire barrier..
Fire rated. You dont need them. They get even hotter than normal downlights.
Then you cannot fit these lights without compromising the thermal integrity of the building. If you can get above, then you can build plasterboard (non-flammable) boxes around the light fittings and insulate over these. But its a bodge. The lights only have limited ventilation and bulbs wont last as long as they should.
You can get around the problem by using energy saving lamps, which run much cooler. Or even better, LEDs, which run cold (well, maybe 40-50 deg)
what's srong with a 10inch ceramic plant pot? 
As mentioned, FR =fire rated.
Some, probably quite rightly, don't like them for reasons stated.
On the other hand, i have fitted hundreds of 'em and yes, they do run quite hot with standard 50W mains GU10's, changing to low energy lamps would over come that, if you felt it was an issue for you. If cash isn't an issue, you could consider some nice remote control LED colour changing sets, they look great.
In your case, i would still advise them as due to their enclosed design, they can help prevent heat loss into the loft, they maintain the fire retarding quality of the ceiling and they can prevent dust coming down through the fitting.
I'm not suggesting you must fit them, but given the relatively small price increase, i would still advise fitting them. Also, if you do not know for certain whether they are required or not, then simply err on the side of safety. Everyone's happy then
Some, probably quite rightly, don't like them for reasons stated.
On the other hand, i have fitted hundreds of 'em and yes, they do run quite hot with standard 50W mains GU10's, changing to low energy lamps would over come that, if you felt it was an issue for you. If cash isn't an issue, you could consider some nice remote control LED colour changing sets, they look great.
In your case, i would still advise them as due to their enclosed design, they can help prevent heat loss into the loft, they maintain the fire retarding quality of the ceiling and they can prevent dust coming down through the fitting.
I'm not suggesting you must fit them, but given the relatively small price increase, i would still advise fitting them. Also, if you do not know for certain whether they are required or not, then simply err on the side of safety. Everyone's happy then
NHBC downlight installation guidelines: http://www.nhbcbuilder.co.uk/NHBCpu...ical/StandardsExtra/filedownload,21353,en.pdf
or http://www.nhbc.co.uk/NHBCPublicati...ical/StandardsExtra/filedownload,16553,en.pdf
Pre-formed cap to seal downlights: http://www.aico.co.uk/firecap_loftcap.htm (It's NOT a firehood....)
IET article on installing downlighters safely[/quote]
or http://www.nhbc.co.uk/NHBCPublicati...ical/StandardsExtra/filedownload,16553,en.pdf
Pre-formed cap to seal downlights: http://www.aico.co.uk/firecap_loftcap.htm (It's NOT a firehood....)
IET article on installing downlighters safely[/quote]
If i understand correctly there's some slight confusion here. There's F-rated (symbol is an F in an up-side-down triangle) which means can be mounted to combustible materials, eg wood, and there's fire rated (60 minutes, 90 minutes etc) which means they will not compromise the fire rating of a ceiling which is a fire compartment barrier.
I guess in practice, if you go for fire rated they will probably be f-rated too, so you would be best to choose fire rated, but do make sure you have the f-rated triangle symbol if mounting on/near wood.
I'm using these from TLC in a lath and plaster ceiling with new plasterboard screwed directly over. They are both 90-minute fire, and f-rated (as well as meeting moisture control and acoustic regs). The instructions recommend ventilation and distances from joists, but do say you can lightly cover them with mineral wool insulation where building regs require. Personally I'd only do that if i was running CFL or LED lamps in them instead of the standard halogens. With halogens you'd ideally fit the covers shown above. They are currenlty uncovered in my loft as I'm not finished with the renovation, and still fitted with the halogens. They don't get hugely hot during continuous operation - i.e. you could touch the black casing (but not the metal cover directly on top).
Liam
Yes, I'm sorry. My post was badly worded.
You are right in that the F-marked items may be mounted in combustible surfaces but note that (for many luminaires) the lamp wattage may be lower for combusible surfaces (35watt versus 50 watt for example).
There are also Fire-Rated luminaires that don't compromise the fire barrier should you poke a 75mm hole in a fire-rated ceiling. Usually these are lined with a special material that will seal the hole to limit the spread of fire.
Do not expect that Fire-Rated fittings are necessarily also F-Marked.
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