Concern about level of corrosion to bath outlet.

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Jenolite rust remover in the bottle is phosphoric acid and excellent for removing rust. However you will then need a metal preservative primer and a gloss paint (oil based) on top to prevent it returning.

Kurust is unusual in that they say it leaves the surface primed and ready for topcoat

BTW Hammerite paint (with the strange thinners) is not all that good for rust. Although it covers it up with a shiny coat, rust can continue to grow under the paint film. This happens a lot on old cars especially underneath where there may be parts that were not accessible due to being spot-welded together. When eventually the paint lifts off yo will find more rust underneath it.

Edit
Sorry, perhaps you meant the Jenolite Rust Converter, which the page suggests is like Kurust.
 
BTW Hammerite paint (with the strange thinners) is not all that good for rust.

Do agree that like any paint, Hammerite, without the proper preparation will not stop rust, even when it suggests it does. The beauty of Hammerite though is that it does not usually require an undercoat or primer, unless it is an unusual metal, it also coats really well, avoiding the need for multiple coats and is the perfect partner for their Kurust, which I have found to be an excellent product.

Another tip is that if you use Diall's brush cleaner/restorer (the blue stuff), this will clean/thin hammerite, saves on buying Hammerite's own thinners which seems to be madly expensive.
 
JohnD: Are you saying that Hammerite Paint is not suitable for this intended application or have I misconstrued?

Right, I have changed the Gel for Kurust from another branch and I have got a 250ml pot of Hammerite (Direct to rust metal paint - smooth white). This is my intended work spec:

1. Use a light wire-brush to get rid of the worst corrosion.
2. Apply fine grit of sandpaper. Would anyone go for wet ‘n dry here?
3. Possibly a minimal application of white spirit.
4. Then the Kurust (the MI specify that a 3-hour wait is required before applying any topcoat).
5. Then apply the white top coat. I cannot see any need for a further coat but if this is required it will need to be applied the following day as MI says to wait 4 hours before second coat.

Thanks for the comments so far and hope that the above has not caused anyone to choke on their port. :)
 
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Jeez....a light clean up is all that's required , a smeer of silicone when fitting new waste fitting will save fooking about with all this rust protection nonsense.
 
I guess I've used almost every rust preventing solution in the world - and none of them are really any good. Once the rust is there, its there.....but in this case a new sealed waste should stop any further issues anyway as the area will remain dry.
John :)
 
Remember rust is always worse than it looks. You won't take it apart and be pleasantly surprised
 

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