Concrete & screeding(?) rawl plugs to use for two projec

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Hi

I have two projects which involve the ceiling in the kitchen and bathroom.

I'm replacing the bathroom light fighting with one that is rated for bathroom use. I live in a flat and as fas as i understand it there is something called screeding - about an inch thick - and then concrete - 2" and then another layer of screeding, that being the floor of the flat above me.

Q1. I have no idea what screeding is. Would someone please enlighten me?

Q2. I'll need to drill holes for the new bathroom light. (I'll also probably need to repaint the bathroom ceiling after I've done because the new light has a smaller diameter fitting than the existing one.) Do I have to drill through the screeding into the concrete to get a good fix? Or perhaps that could be better put as how do I get a good fix? What rawl plus should I use? How deep should I drill? The only weight the light fitting is going to have to take is its own weight plus the weight of a light bulb- energy efficient ones of course.

Project No2 involves a ceiling mounted rack for pots and pans and the odd eye of newt and toad of bat ;). Now this has one central hanging point so I am planning to get a piece of wood and mount that to the ceiling then hang the thing off that. It'll be taking a fair bit of weight so needs to be mounted securely. Ceiling is the same as in the bathroom.
Any ideas how I get the wood securely mounted? Rawl plugs & screw lengths?

Thanks in advance

L.
 
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You are not allowed to change the light in your bathroom under Part P legislation. If you get an electrician he will fit the light and will fasten your other batton up for you.

To do it yourself you would need an SDS drill. You cannot drill concrete with an ordinary masonary drill bit.
 
kevplumb said:
You cannot drill concrete with an ordinary masonary drill bit.

:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

you don't half talk some rubbish :rolleyes:


Have you tried it? You hit a piece of granite and the hole stops getting deeper and starts getting wider. She's not allowed to rewire her kitchen anyway. Do you know 'nuffink'?
 
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Have you tried it? You hit a piece of granite and the hole stops getting deeper and starts getting wider. She's not allowed to rewire her kitchen anyway. Do you know 'nuffink'?

1 it's 1 light not a rewire :rolleyes:

2 you don't have aggregate in screed :rolleyes:

3 stop talking pap :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
 
kevplumb said:
Have you tried it? You hit a piece of granite and the hole stops getting deeper and starts getting wider. She's not allowed to rewire her kitchen anyway. Do you know 'nuffink'?

1 it's 1 light not a rewire :rolleyes:

2 you don't have aggregate in screed :rolleyes:

3 stop talking pap :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:


Flats don't have screed underneath the ceiling - how would it be applied? It's a dry mix that would fall off. It will be concrete just below the plaster.

It may not be a rewire but it is a 'special location'
 
Flats don't have screed underneath the ceiling

never heard of bison blocks clown :rolleyes:

btw i assume you are trying to get this locked by talking such drivel :eek:

why not naff off back to general chat and stay there :idea:
 
Tut tut tut , Whatever will Lynda say.

To be of structural integrity concrete has to be 4 inches thick. It's shuttered and poured over a rebar cage. 2 inches of concrete would collapse.

Do you know anyfink?
 
o be of structural integrity concrete has to be 4 inches thick. It's shuttered and poured over a rebar cage.

never heard of bison blocks clown

take your silly argument away and go and play with it :LOL:

Tut tut tut whatever will lynda say



she will probably have you banned :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

now as you obviously haven't a clue what you are talking about

go away :rolleyes:
 
Moderator 4

I have a delete button. Joe you have been warned. You are making yourself look stupid and ruining the integrity of this section of the forum. Any similar posts will be deleted
.
 
As far as allowing an electrician to do any work in my home, well,

1. I first came to this forum with issues about electrical work I had paid for and had the governing body, Elecsa, in to observe the 'electricians' *cough* work. I was issued a Part P certificate by that electrician while there was a loose earth inside the consumer unit.

2. I looked up part P at the time. You can replace existing lights without requiring a part P. I am replacing an energy hungry spotlight with a unit that will use energy efficient bulbs.

3. The light fittings for a bathroom have to be fit for their purpose and are rated according to the Zone they are fit for.

All I need to know is the rawl plugs to be used to secure the light fitting and what screed is and what would be the best way to drill in to it.

Regards

L.
 
I see that Kevplumb is altering my posts.
 

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