condensing boilers

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help wanted!!!......At present i have a glow-worm fuelsaver 60 mkII open flue boiler that is getting a little old in the tooth,(1985 vintage),and i am looking into getting a new boiler. As i understand it all boilers now have to be of the condensing type,however,as i live in a mid terraced house which virtually consists of bay widows to the front and large picture windows to the rear,i do not have any suitable "outside walls"on which to mount such a boiler.....Can anyone suggest a possible fix to this problem??......I have heard that you cannot use these boilers using original chimneys via copex liners etc,but can?? have them sighted in the loft space........Is this correct and can anyone suggest any other ideas i can investigate??
 
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There are several options which might suit. Best to get a competent engineer to advise at your property.

One possibility is a boiler which uses a 50 mm diameter plastic flue outlet.

Others include vertical flues exiting the roof.

I dont like the idea but there are exemptions from having to fit a condensing boiler if the property is "difficult".

Tony Glazier
 
You could put it in the loft or you could put it in an upstairs room and flue it through the loft.

In both cases, as I assume there is no gable end in the loft it requires a vertical flue kit(special terminal and with some boilers special attachment where pipe goes vertically out of boiler, others can accept the first piece of flue extension), a through slate and some flue extensions. If in a room flued through loft then might need 3 or 4 1meter sections plus the vertical kit. If mounted in loft one length should do.

Cost depends on manufcaturer but you are looking at about £30 to 50 for the vertical flue kit, but as you don't need a horizontal kit you might cancel that out, then each 1m extension is £45 or so. A through roof slate is £30 or so.

When installing in loft good lighting is required a proper loft ladder, adequate flooring around boiler and walkway to boiler, in some cases if not suitable struts to support yourself as you enter loft handrail required.

Isolation of gas electricity and water should be provided in the main house, and it's good practice to put a filling loop and pressure guage in the main house. Also I suggest you go for a programmable roomstat.

Don't pick a cheap boiler which is likely to require resetting a couple of times a week.

I think that covers it.

It will cost you quite a bit.

Is there no room in the kitchen on the back?
 
Thanks for your help guys.....With regard to my old boiler,it sits on the kitchen wall and exhausts via a liner up a chimney!....with this in mind is it possible to use a vertical vent pipe/kit in the same way??? As for any "outside walls" the only ones i have are either below bay windows or just simply not suitable enough with regards to height/clearance. One option i have been considering is positioning it on the bathroom wall and venting it through the ceiling/roof,which would mean a vent pipe of about 1.5m in length......Would this be allowed??
With regard to condensing boilers,what are the "better"makes to go for so??, i can start researching a little more
 
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Forgot to say.....First metre 1.5m of existing flue is of a an "asbestos" type material,into which the copex liner is fitted!........would the vertical flue kit be of a similar fashion??
 
Nothing nowadays will be made of asbestos, probably plastic! Getting rid of old asbestos may be a bother.

Paul, I think the handrail around loft hatch is intended to stop you falling back down the hole rather than to "pull yourself up" with!

Tony
 

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