Connecting up new waste system.....

[Adam182]

No, I'd advise against it. Have seen it done, but there is always the risk of solid matter from the toilet going the wrong way and causing a problem, The waste runs need to be kept as short as possible, no more bends than necessary and provision for cleaning made when installing. All have the potential to block with soap/grease etc, and sorting that out is never pleasant.

You could always take Ian's suggestion, bring a section of 110mm pipe in under the floor from the back inlet of the gulley, and connect the wastes to that via bosses.

Thankyou very much for all your help, it is very much appreciated, for closure when I am done I'll add some pictures

Edit* I mentioned earlier about swapping over the wastes so the sink runs with the dishwasher and washing machine with the basin, would this cause any issue?

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

No, but use minimum 40mm pipework, (basin will be ok in 32mm until it joins the 40mm if run doesnt exceed 3m), heed the max run distance of 3m before upsizing to 50mm and put an anti vac trap on the basin.

 

[Adam182]

You could always take Ian's suggestion, bring a section of 110mm pipe in under the floor from the back inlet of the gulley, and connect the wastes to that via bosses.

I'm back again, If I brought a piece of pipe out of the back gulley inlet and connect my appliances to this via bosses, what would be the purpose of even having the gulley? could I not just connect some 110mm directly into the chamber outside and boss into the pipe when it runs into the house? thanks!

 

[Ian H]

If it blocked it would overflow from the gully outside and it gives a direct access.

 

[Adam182]

Thanks for all the help everyone, went at it today and got everything in.

I used a bit of everyones advice in the end and a little bit of my own aswell

here's the pics as promised...

 

[John D v2.0]

Thanks for the photos! Is that rest bend propped up on a brick? Could do with being supported a bit better in case you have a heavy turd. Also it looks a bit tight radius, is it really a correct long radius bend or did you use a normal 90 degree bend?

 

[Adam182]

Thanks for the photos! Is that rest bend propped up on a brick? Could do with being supported a bit better in case you have a heavy turd. Also it looks a bit tight radius, is it really a correct long radius bend or did you use a normal 90 degree bend?

You are right I have just placed two bricks underneath for now, I do plan on supporting it better, that said it is a regular 90 as that's what I had on hand, should I really be using a rest bend I wasn't sure how necessary they are?

 

[John D v2.0]

You are right I have just placed two bricks underneath for now, I do plan on supporting it better, that said it is a regular 90 as that's what I had on hand, should I really be using a rest bend I wasn't sure how necessary they are?

They are needed at the base of a stack as the waste will be falling directly on the bend, which is not really pretty, needs a gentle transition to horizontal. The elbows are more intended for turning a flat corner. From upstairs it's probably more important, but if it's easy to change, you could always go for a couple of 45s if you have them already. They'd be difficult to support though, a rest bend has a built in back leg.
Maybe an experienced drainage expert can give some insight

 

[Adam182]

They are needed at the base of a stack as the waste will be falling directly on the bend, which is not really pretty, needs a gentle transition to horizontal. The elbows are more intended for turning a flat corner. From upstairs it's probably more important, but if it's easy to change, you could always go for a couple of 45s if you have them already. They'd be difficult to support though, a rest bend has a built in back leg.
Maybe an experienced drainage expert can give some insight

Thanks for the info, I will swap it out for a rest bend, I'm sure I can make use of the current 90 elbow I'm using elsewhere.

It was in the back of my mind whether I should have popped to the local shed for one but I guess my lazy side called the shots.

I did try to find longer bends for the 50mm elbows but they didn't have anything, that said it won't be solids passing through these so i think the only issues tight elbows will cause might be related to suction.

Thanks again for your time it's much appreciated

 

[Ian H]

I use the normal 90's much more than the proper rest bends. Reason being that I replace the clay ones which are tighter than normal 90's anyway.

If I was doing a rest bend and a couple of meters I might use a proper rest bend.

I'd see if your turds jump over the channel and onto the opposite side of the manhole, if they don't then it will be fine.

It looks a very nice job The only thing I might be tempted to do is start the 110mm waste run with a 90 so nothing sits against the access cap.

I did one on Friday where everything connected internally to a single stack and no external access. Sweet corn in the kitchen sink

 

[Adam182]

I use the normal 90's much more than the proper rest bends. Reason being that I replace the clay ones which are tighter than normal 90's anyway.

If I was doing a rest bend and a couple of meters I might use a proper rest bend.

I'd see if your turds jump over the channel and onto the opposite side of the manhole, if they don't then it will be fine.

It looks a very nice job The only thing I might be tempted to do is start the 110mm waste run with a 90 so nothing sits against the access cap.

I did one on Friday where everything connected internally to a single stack and no external access. Sweet corn in the kitchen sink

Thanks for the info. In this case I will see how it performs when everything is in use, I will have full access underneath so I can always swap it out later.

Good call on starting the 110mm run with a 90, could have saved myself a boss and gone straight into a 90 for the dishwasher waste in this case, I will grab a 90 next time I am getting some materials.

The main run I had to cut out for the manhole was backed up with turd and hadn't realised until I cut into it. Looks like the few days that followed the manhole cover at the end of the drive getting smashed lastyear allowed it to fill up with leaves and I didn't check when putting a new cover on. Luckily the house isn't being lived in at the moment so it didn't back up all the way.

I now understand the importance of gulley's!. Sweet corn coming up into the sink must be pretty rough!

 

[Nige F]

Eat sweetcorn - comes out as corn on the cob

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

The body cannot digest sweetcorn and tomato seeds, (may be others), so come out same as they went in. Have seen tomato plants, complete with fruit, growing out of sludge beds at work. I dont like tomato, even if I did, not sure I'd eat those!

 

[DaG56]

I use the normal 90's much more than the proper rest bends. Reason being that I replace the clay ones which are tighter than normal 90's anyway.

If I was doing a rest bend and a couple of meters I might use a proper rest bend.

I'd see if your turds jump over the channel and onto the opposite side of the manhole, if they don't then it will be fine.

It looks a very nice job The only thing I might be tempted to do is start the 110mm waste run with a 90 so nothing sits against the access cap.

I did one on Friday where everything connected internally to a single stack and no external access. Sweet corn in the kitchen sink

Sorry to revive this old thread. I was wondering what can be done if the toilet contents do jump across the channel and land on the opposite side. Is there a chamber available with entry's only on on one side? Is it something a building control man would have an issue with?

 

[Ian H]

Is the manhole plastic or brick built? If it’s brick built you could break the benching out on the side where it splashes and redo it with a steeper side.

If it’s plastic there are some that have a second lid in them that closes the channel, only thing is they are small and rare.