Conservatory roof bars

[grifter]

I know a conservatory roof is designed to take heavy snow loads, but are they strong enough to take plasterboard fixed to the inside? Glazed panels.

 

[foxhole]

Doubt you could fix to them without shattering glass , very little space or depth for fixing .

 

[grifter]

Doubt you could fix to them without shattering glass , very little space or depth for fixing .

Was going to fix battens using self tapping screws into the aluminium. As long as it's in the centre, should be ok, seen others do this.

 

[George_engineer]

I think the question you've not asked is would they be strong enough to take plasterboard and snow?

 

[grifter]

I think the question you've not asked is would they be strong enough to take plasterboard and snow?

Good point. What do you think?

 

[^woody^]

Apparently, snow is not forecast for the next 100 years or so.

How will you deal with the condensation risk on the glass once its enclosed?

The excessive flexing (deflection) of the bars and prevention of plaster cracking?

 

[catlad]

Is that a picture of your conservatory? A lot to consider there, Your house becoming very dark for one!

 

[grifter]

Is that a picture of your conservatory? A lot to consider there, Your house becoming very dark for one!

Yes. There will be new lighting and our kitchen will be opened into the space.

 

[catlad]

Did you have that conservatory built? it doesn't look that old.

 

[cdbe]

9.5mm plasterboard and skim weighs nothing. uPVC cladding even less. Is there a reason for the boarding? Generally it's heat loss/gain and involves insulation. Have you considered retaining a bit of the glazing (using a bit of uPVC trim to form a frame) as "skylights" to provide a bit of natural light?

 

[grifter]

Did you have that conservatory built? it doesn't look that old.

It was already there when we moved in. It's around 10 years old.

 

[grifter]

9.5mm plasterboard and skim weighs nothing. uPVC cladding even less. Is there a reason for the boarding? Generally it's heat loss/gain and involves insulation. Have you considered retaining a bit of the glazing (using a bit of uPVC trim to form a frame) as "skylights" to provide a bit of natural light?

The bars flex a bit (more than l thought) l noticed when cleaning, which worried me adding the extra weight of plasterboard, being glazed too, would it collapse. Plus the natural movement may crack the plaster.
But yes, the idea was to superquilt first, plasterboard and skim. Was going to leave 3 sections open for natural light too. We want to retain heat loss and create an addition to our kitchen with a ceiling rather than a conservatory.

 

[catlad]

I have seen people using pvc hollow soffit cladding for the inside instead of plasterboard which would be lighter and more flexible.
I personally wouldn't go down any route involving keeping the old bars and glazing, I would build a new timber roof and insulate it with the usual celotex/kingspan and then probably use rubber for ease and weight, and if you want to save some of the glass you could use those as skylights.

 

[grifter]

I have seen people using pvc hollow soffit cladding for the inside instead of plasterboard which would be lighter and more flexible.
I personally wouldn't go down any route involving keeping the old bars and glazing, I would build a new timber roof and insulate it with the usual celotex/kingspan and then probably use rubber for ease and weight, and if you want to save some of the glass you could use those as skylights.

I'm probably going to build a timber frame underneath, independent of the bars so l don't put any extra stress on the existing structure. I'll still batten and superquilt first, then celotex between my new joists so l have the best of both then.

 

[lyndon ogden]

Hard to say without expert advice on structural loads. For what it's worth, I had a Leka roof put on two years ago and nothing seems to phase it