Constructing a base for a shed

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I want to errect a 10' x 12' shed in a wood and it would be difficult to get in a concrete mixer and lay a hard base. Would it be OK to errect the shed on bearers and if so what size would the bearers have to be and how far apart? Would the bearers need to be resting on slabs and if so would I have to put a concrete mix under the slabs.

Sorry about all these questions but I am a total novice at this game.
 
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You could use bearers but make sure they are level or the shed wont be.
Make sure you use pressure treated timber but use added wood preserver (cuprinol etc) especially at the ends so it will soak up as much as possible.
Tanalised timber now uses different chemicals which remove the need for arsenic but dont expect them to last as long as previously.
It has gone down from 25 to 15 years.
You could try the method a neighbour used as a base for his greenhouse.
He used a few lengths of 4" or 6" plastic drainage pipe.
He dug holes approx 12" down (300mm)
After making sure the pipe was cut straight across he sunk them into the holes, making sure they were upright and all level.
He then filled each pipe with enough concrete to fill to the top and put a bit of concrete around the pipes to hold them in place.
The top of the pipes should be set 2-3" (50-75mm) above the ground to keep the shed base above the damp ground.
This helps prevent rotting.
He only screwed into the concrete using rawlplug to hold the greenhouse down.
For a shed I would recommend putting rag bolts into the concrete before it sets.
I would set these concrete bearing points every 2' (610mm) along each of the 12' sides plus 2 or 3 along each 10' end and a few in the middle for floor support.
You could then make a frame with half lapped joints on the ends to fit over the rag bolts you used.
This will make a stronger base than using just timber.
You could also use concrete slabs to lay the floor bearers on after making sure they are set level.
Every site has its own problems which can be overcome with a little thought before starting.
 
well ok .... what ever touches floor will rot so you could go and put the shed on the floor but it will only lats a year.

if you put other wood under the shed the same will hapen but you can change them. but you say you can't get concrete mixer in why do you need one use a spade and a flat bit of wood it does the job
 
or clear an area and use cheap patio slabs under the bearers to keep it off of the ground
 
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lord nicon21 said:
well ok .... what ever touches floor will rot so you could go and put the shed on the floor but it will only lats a year.

if you put other wood under the shed the same will hapen but you can change them.
Strange that I used untreated wood under the base of a kids playhouse that lasted many years and was only removed when they grew up.
Western Red cedar was used under the playhouse and that lasted longer than any treated timber.

MOD

please see item 7
Item 7 and all other rules noted and acted on.
 
Dewy said:
lord nicon21 said:
well ok .... what ever touches floor will rot so you could go and put the shed on the floor but it will only lats a year.

if you put other wood under the shed the same will hapen but you can change them.
Strange that I used untreated wood under the base of a kids playhouse that lasted many years and was only removed when they grew up.
Western Red cedar was used under the playhouse and that lasted longer than any treated timber.

MOD

please see item 7


yeah some wood lasts longer and if you paint it.. it will last longer too
 
The best treatment for wood is oil not paint.
Red cedar and teak along with other hardwoods dont need treating.
Look at all the 500 year old oak framed buildings that survive around the country.
Paint is only any use for softwoods that are so cheap because they grow so fast.
Pressure treating helps softwood last longer in contact with the soil although nowhere near as good as a naturally oily hardwood.
 
Thanks very much for your reply folks it is much appreciated. I think perhaps getting treated bearers then soaking them again in creosote or similar and then resting them on pavers is probably the way to go. I very much like the idea of the pilings with concrete filled drainpipes though.
All I've now got to do is to get planning permission from the local jobsworth.
 
Dewy said:
You could try the method a neighbour used as a base for his greenhouse.
He used a few lengths of 4" or 6" plastic drainage pipe.
He dug holes approx 12" down (300mm)
After making sure the pipe was cut straight across he sunk them into the holes, making sure they were upright and all level.
He then filled each pipe with enough concrete to fill to the top and put a bit of concrete around the pipes to hold them in place.

This is a neat way to solve the problem. I once built a green wood workshop garage using pilings like this and so long as you ensure they are absolutely verticle it works a treat.

however i would place some reinforcing within the concrete piling. 6 inches of concrete is not very strong. Try some threaded bar set into the entire depth of the piling and enough showing so you can bolt down onto it.
 
Sorry if this reply is a bit late but I used (soon to be banned) railway sleepers as bearers on compacted soil. Dug out and more or less leveled an area the size of the shed. Put sleepers in at gaps of about 12" - 14", levelling each one as I went.

Just make sure you get the sleepers perpendicular to the shed's own bearers otherwise getting a friend round with a chain saw at tea time just before the shed erectors arrive is a tad embarassing!

Anyway, it worked so well that my brother went for the same set up with one a 10' x 12' shed.

I bet the sleepers will out live the sheds in both cases. Mind you we both have well draining soil. Had plenty of storms and no problems with water soaling away.
 
This is a really old thread you twerp. You're not supposed to revive the dead (except at Halloween)

Sleepers aren't banned, creosote is banned and has been for a few years now. You can still get old sleepers second hand that are full of creosote, but best avoided if you are putting them near plants or shrubs, kids or animals, or anywhere they might be sat on.
 

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