Converting two utility cupboard doorways into one – remove upper studwork or keep it for sliding doors?

[adexandros]

Hi everyone,

I’ll ask again here because the practical advise from people was 100% better than chatGPT

I’m working on a DIY renovation of a utility cupboard on the ground floor of my house and would appreciate some advice on the best way to proceed.


Originally, the cupboard had two separate doorways divided by a central timber stud partition. I’ve now removed the central section and the old door linings to create one large opening.


The plan is to install two overlapping sliding wardrobe-style doors, ideally one mirrored and one solid panel. The cupboard will house a heat pump hot water cylinder on the left and a washing machine with a tumble dryer stacked above it on the right.


Current measurements (after removing the old linings):

• 1900 mm clear width between the inside faces of the outer timber studs.
• 2040 mm from the tiled floor to the underside of the existing horizontal timber.
• 2340 mm floor-to-ceiling height.
• Approximately 300 mm of studwork/plasterboard remaining above the opening.

My first concern is the existing timber framing.


The horizontal timber above the opening is one continuous piece, but it doesn’t physically rest on the two outer vertical studs. It appears to be secured with diagonally driven nails at each end.


Previously, it also had the central partition beneath it, which I’ve now removed. It hasn’t dropped or visibly moved since, but I’m unsure whether the remaining connections are adequate.


Above this timber is a short vertical stud connecting it to another horizontal timber near the ceiling, again with angled nails.


I believe this is a non-load-bearing partition, but there is a bathroom directly above it, so I haven’t confirmed that structurally.


My second question is whether to retain or remove the upper section.


I’m considering two options:


Option A – Keep the existing upper framing.


Retain the opening at approximately 2040 mm high, make sure the timber is adequately supported, and install shorter sliding doors.


I’d then line the rough timber opening with MDF or similar, paint it to match the surrounding walls and incorporate some warm LED ambient lighting above the doors.


I’ve looked at IKEA SKYTTA, although I’m not sure it will fit once the opening is lined, so I’m open to other sliding-door systems.


Option B – Remove the remaining upper section and go almost full height.


The ceiling is at 2340 mm, so removing or modifying the upper framing could potentially allow taller, more standard-sized sliding wardrobe doors.


This might give a cleaner, more modern appearance, particularly with one mirrored panel, but I’m unsure whether the additional work and potential structural implications are worthwhile.


I’d really appreciate advice on:

1. Does the existing timber framing look typical for a non-load-bearing partition, and how can I establish whether it’s safe after removing the central support?
2. Would you retain the upper 300 mm of studwork or investigate removing it to create a taller opening?
3. If keeping the existing framing, would additional support be needed for the horizontal timber?
4. What sliding-door systems would you recommend for an opening roughly 1900 mm wide and 2040 mm high before lining? Ideally something that doesn’t require a complete wardrobe carcass.
5. Would you use MDF to line the opening, or is there a better approach for a neat finish?
6. Is there anything I should consider regarding access to the hot water cylinder and ventilation for the stacked tumble dryer?

There is also a 60–70 mm deep recess in the tiled floor where the central partition stood. I’m planning to repair this and possibly install a contrasting strip of porcelain tiles flush with the existing floor, with the bottom sliding-door track mounted over it.


I’m happy doing the carpentry, tiling and finishing myself, but I want to make sure the existing framing is safe before proceeding any further.


I’ve attached photographs showing the original layout, the opening after demolition, the timber connections above the opening and the floor recess.


Any advice or suggestions on the best overall approach would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks!

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

I doubt many will bother reading all of the above.

I had a uni lecturer who insisted on every essay being less than one side, there's a skill in keeping to the point!

Any chance of a summary?

 

[adexandros]

ahaha, fair enough!
Sorry my first language is not english so I lean on AI to translation and it got carried away.

TL;DR

In short, I’m converting two utility cupboard doorways into one opening for sliding wardrobe doors.


I’ve removed the central timber partition, leaving a 1900mm-wide opening.


There are two horizontal timbers above it, at 2040mm and 2260mm from the floor, both fixed to the side studs with angled nails rather than resting on them. The lower one was previously supported by the central partition.


My main questions are:

1. Is the remaining timber framing adequately supported without the central partition, or does it need reinforcing?
2. Could I remove the lower horizontal timber and the short stud above it, leaving the upper one at 2260mm, to fit almost full-height sliding doors?
3. What sort of sliding door could I fit there without resorting to custom made?

The timber frame is obviously pretty rough so I would need it to either dress them or cover them, thus reducing the space.

It’s a ground-floor stud partition with a bathroom above. I believe it’s non-load-bearing, it's going parallel to the upper floor joist

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

1. Possibly OK but I'd add some support from above.

2. Yes, it would be a better idea, as then you won't have a load of timber and plasterboard resting on your doors.

3. You could infill above a standard sized door by hanging a frame from the ceiling joists above (not the plasterboard). You may need to add noggins between the two nearest joists to give support where it's needed. You'll need lots of long screws and care, otherwise it will become a cracked mess. You could add such support to the existing bit of wall if it happens to align with a standard sliding door height.

4. It would have been preferable to have added the support from above before removing the wall from below, as it may have now sagged. But that's not where we are!

5. You should be able to check/modify the frame by removing the plasterboard inside the cupboard, avoiding damage to the outer side.

 

[adexandros]

Thanks that helps, I’ll remove the remaining plasterboard inside to fully see and understand where all the timber is - most likely I might remove both the horizontal timbers and then create a top frame attached to the joists as you suggested so that full sized doors have more clearance

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

Looking again at your photos, I'd just add a substantial noggin between the ceiling joists above that top joist in the wall. Use big woodscrews through the joists into its ends. Drill a 16mm hole through it, with a countersink at the top. Then drill down through this hole, through the timber shown in your photo, within the top of the wall. Use a M16 threaded rod with washers and nuts to suspend the wall from your noggin above. Ideally get a nut in below your noggin and above the wall frame so it's clamped rather than dangling. Don't over-jack it - this would be capable of pulling up too much and cracking the wall. Put a long level or straight edge under the door frame and wind it up only until it's straight.

 

[adexandros]

I managed to remove the whole frame, and it seems like it wasn’t supporting anything from above since it wasn’t even touching any joists - there seems to be three exposed noggings.

At this point could I just ad a central additional noggin and fix a wood piece between the 3 of them and use that for the sliding doors rail?