Cooker and hob wiring

28 Aug 2007
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United Kingdom
I am in the process of refitting my kitchen and will need to my separate cooker and hob connected soon.

The cooker and hob came as a set but the oven has a standard plug on it. Can the oven be wired into the same junction box (old cooker connection point) as the hob? The junction box is rate at 45 amp and this is then connected to a CCU on a 32 amp mcb in the Consumer unit.
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lets see.. it has a 13A fuse in the plug... and you want to put it on a 32A breaker... :rolleyes:

no you can't wire it straight into the cooker connection unit..
Thanks for the swift answer and the sarcasm. :confused:

I only have one double socket on the cooker counter run so to avoid having a cable appear out of my counter and then plug into and extension lead to make it reach can I run a cable off this to a switched FCU to be able to turn the cooker on and off and then wire the oven lead into the FCU?

Incidentally how did it work with my old cooker which was one unit but obviously took power for both parts from the 32a circuit? Forgive my ignorance.
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You could replace the cooker connection unit with a single 13A socket and then plug the oven into that.

So that's sorted out the oven.

Now, please tell us about the hob.
Taylor you must have been typing the same time as me lol as their was only one reply when I answered.

The hob is 6600W and the oven states a max of 2400W
Provided that the (domestic) separate hob and oven combined don't exceed 15kW and that they are both within 2M of the cooker control, then they can share the same supply and the same original CCU.

The oven, though it might have a 13A plug fitted, doesn't mean that it should be 'plugged in' - the manufacturer has no idea whether the buyer is also fitting a hob.......

It isn't possible to overload either an oven or a hob, therefore the two [/b]items can be regarded as one - just as if it were a free-standing cooker.

The main consideration here is short circuit protection. Overload does not come into it.

Consider the protection for a single element of a hob or oven/grill - then consider the combined protection for a number of elements of either:
it's the same for any combination of faults. It all comes down to the short circuit protection.

So, cut off that damned 13A oven plug and wire it together with the hob on a standard cooker circuit, regardless of the size of the fitted flex.

if it comes with a 13A fused plug fitted then it must be connected to a 13A fused supply.. manufacturers instructions superceede the regs.. says so in the regs.. :)

it's the cable you're protecting, not the appliance..

OP.. please do a search for "hob" or "kitchen" and you'll find many posts dealing with this exact situation ( although each situation should be different depending on things like hob size and type etc.. )

the simplest answer is often to change the single backbox that the cooker connection unit is on to a dual backbox and fit an unswitched single socket or fused spur alongside the original connce connection..
Thanks for the replies and info.

So I think my best course is to fit a dual back box, with the hob wired into this then a cable from the second outlet to a 13amp FCU with the oven connected into it.
no, no, no.. you misunderstood.. there is no "cable from the second outlet".. you put an outlet on one half of the box, and a socket on the other.. and wire between...




depending on what you already have..

then one of these..


and one of these..

Thanks for the advice and pics Jack very helpful. ;) as they say a picture paints a 1000 words.
Jacko, what do you mean that the manufacturer's instructions superceede (sic) the Regs?

Have you ever tried to decipher a set of instructions issued by a well-meaning translator on behalf of an Oriental manufacturer? It makes painful and sometimes humourous reading: "Most honored and valiant customer, thank you for buying our first class ploduct. So that you might be enabled to enjoy our ploduct to its utmost fullness prease forrow the forrowing instructions for your deright..........

Come along ColJack! You don't need to swallow it all. Try a little commonsense - without the spouting of "The Regs say so".......

Jacko, what do you mean that the manufacturer's instructions superceede (sic) the Regs?

Come along ColJack! You don't need to swallow it all. Try a little commonsense - without the spouting of "The Regs say so".......
If you don't follow the manufacturer's instructions you have contravened a Fundamental Principle of the regulations.

Since you cannot know why a manufacturer specifies a particular installation method you cannot be sure that ignoring it will be no less safe than following it, so your departure from 134.1.1 doesn't comply with 120.3.

In other words if you don't install something the way that the manufacturer tells you to then you cannot issue an EIC for the work.
hey POD, there's no need to start being nasty about a whole section of society just because you haven't been bothered to learn their language, and they have bothered to learn yours..

get back to me when you can speak word perfect mandarin without sounding funny doing it...

asshole.... < rectal orifice in case the swear filter catches it..
Don't be a silly billy Bas. It isn't possible to follow certain manufacturer's instructions to the letter. Because certain manufacturer's clearly have not a clue - let alone a basic understanding of the English language.....

Other manufacturer's, on the other hand, do have a clue - and they are recognised as such by having a seat on the IET Wiring Committee .....

It's very easy to spout Regulations, but not so easy to comprehend them.

I'm quite content to take into account the manufacturer's instructions inasmuch that it might affect any warranty. But I'll be blowed if I'll accept any Tom Dick or Harry's instructions over and above the Regulations and my own commonsense........


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