Cooker Circuit

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17 Jul 2005
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I have just had an electric main oven (3.6 kW) and a Combination / Microwave (3.6 kW) installed next to each other a part of an expensive kitchen re-fit. The "qualified" electrician has extended the existing 40 amp cooker circuit to the new location but has terminated the cable into a standard double socket outlet. He has then connected each appliance to this socket via a 13 amp plug .
I say he should have terminated the main cable with a 45 amp double pole switch. This could then be used to supply the main oven and then he should have looped into the Combination / Microwave via a second double pole switch (at least 20 amp rating).
The "qualified" electrician says his way is safer!
Who is right?
 
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a double socket is designed for a max of 13A from both plugs. they should not have been connected like this. not so bad if there was 2 single sockets
 
those appliances shouldnt be on 13A plugs anyway should they? Being as the max rating for a 13A plug is 3120(ish)Watts
 
crafty1289 said:
those appliances shouldnt be on 13A plugs anyway should they? Being as the max rating for a 13A plug is 3120(ish)Watts

best if they arent plugged in, but after diversity they could. there also protected by a 13A fuse so are limited in how much power they can use
 
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i dont see how diversity applies to a single electric oven. The heatnig element isnt variable, it is on a thermostat, when it says it is 3.6kw, THAT is exactly how much it uses when switched on, and the circuit should be designed as such!

Things like hob tops are different, they have 4 or 5 elements, so not all will be on at once, you can use diversity there!

I think for those ovens, a 20A radial is best for each.
 
crafty1289 said:
i dont see how diversity applies to a single electric oven. The heatnig element isnt variable, it is on a thermostat, when it says it is 3.6kw, THAT is exactly how much it uses when switched on, and the circuit should be designed as such!

Things like hob tops are different, they have 4 or 5 elements, so not all will be on at once, you can use diversity there!

I think for those ovens, a 20A radial is best for each.

didnt relise the 1 element part.... :oops:
 
Did you get a Building Regulations Completion Certificate from either the electrician or the kitchen company?
 
unless that elemnt is not on 100% of the time - then the averaged depends on the control mechanism...
Actually a 13A fuse will carry the best part of 20A for 30 mins before blowing anyway, so it is most likley OK in practice, but not really the best method- agree separate sockets or 20a switches.
 

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