Cooker Control Box

[JimBartlett]

I am going to install a new electric oven/gas hob cooker and, previously only had an all gas cooker. The electric cable for an electric oven terminates in a wall cupboard - about 10" depth - above and to the left of the cooker. Can I just put in a control unit in the cupboard and run a cable from there to a connection box at the rear of the cooker. The wall in between is all tiled without any chance of getting replacement tiles should I have to cut a hole and break one. Also the cable is not long enough to reach other than where it is.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

No problem - typically this is how cookers are usually wired, cable from the CU to the cooker control unit:

then a cable from that to an outlet plate:

In your case it sounds as if the second cable will have to run on the surface - use of trunking would provide protection and look better. I think the CCU has to be within 2m of the outlet.

 

[JimBartlett]

sorry if I am being thick, but does your reply mean that the control box is OK in the cupboard?

 

[Big_Spark]

JIm, NO..the control unit MUST NOT be in a cupboard.

It must be easily accessible and visible in the event of a fault or other emergency.

Also, be sure to check this old piece of cable out before going ahead. The cable may be damaged or cut-off along it's route. Ensure it does go all the way the consumer unit in one piece.

It may "appear" to, but that doesn't make it so.

The cable should have a full Insulation Resitance Test done on it to confirm it is safe to use.

 

[il78]

Jim...your saying easily accessible, but the other Jim knows where the switch is......

And the other factor is that the other Jim does not want to retile his kitchen......

 

[Big_Spark]

Jim...your saying easily accessible, but the other Jim knows where the switch is......

And the other factor is that the other Jim does not want to retile his kitchen......

He may know were it is, but what about a visitor, or if he sells the house, will the new people?

The rules are there for safety, they may be a damned pain at times, but rules is rules.

The only way around it I can see that would change it would be to put a big sticker on the cupboard stating the switch was in there...hmmmVery nice

 

[ban-all-sheds]

You could just tell the new people...

What about the fact that CUs are often under the stairs?

I did consider this aspect when I responded, but I thought - CCU in a cupboard? Yup, that's accessible.

 

[il78]

tut tut Jim.......if rules are rules, those JB's need to come out from under the floor......

I think its safe to say that this aint going to create any major problems.....and most kitchen fitters / sparks are installing them within the cupboards.......most of the sockets in my kitchen are below worktop height within cupboards, I personally hate plug-tops & flex's on show......In a commercial / industrial installation I would agree with you as there is potentially more users......

 

[securespark]

Sorry to join the FWL-bashing parade, but I agree that switches are OK in cupboards as long as everyone who will use the appliances knows where they are.

The other way of looking at is that a cupboard switch is sometimes less hazardous to reach in the event of (eg) a pan fire.

And, as Ian says, the fewer switches that are on show, the better. Ugly b*ggers!! (The switches, that is!)

 

[Big_Spark]

Guys, I am not in disagreement with you, from either the practicality or the esthetics perspective, in fact I DO AGRREE..but I did not write the regs..

If I did we would all know where we stood and be able to understand the buggers!!

 

[JimBartlett]

Boys, Boys. Let us not argue. Will it be OK if I put a new cable in to run to what is, at the moment a double socket near the cooker and change it to a Cooker Switch with socket and then run a cable from there to the cooker. The socket is a spur so I can just dissconnect the other end of the wire to it.

 

[Big_Spark]

Boys, Boys. Let us not argue. Will it be OK if I put a new cable in to run to what is, at the moment a double socket near the cooker and change it to a Cooker Switch with socket and then run a cable from there to the cooker. The socket is a spur so I can just dissconnect the other end of the wire to it.

Yes JIm, no problem doing that, however you will likely need to deepen the box. Standard double boxes are 25mm deep, the cooker box will need a minimum of 35mm, probably 45mm to enable you to terminate properly and not risk cable damage when screwing the faceplate back.

 

[pipme]

Hi,

Oooer ! Kitchen, sockets in cupboards, in fact behind drawers ... have a few !! But not in everyday use unless to isolate for example Washing M/c.

A bonus ... they keep really clean and grease free, are also out of reach of 'little fingers'.

Just wondering, as mentioned elsewhere, the whole thing needs looking at, from a basic design of homes point of view.
Is it impossible to utilise ducting or conduit such that a rewire would mean much less disruption if not partial demolition of the home ?
Just how much would any additional costs eat into the profits made by the 'home' builders, reckon they make plenty now !!

P.

 

[AdamW]

I am surprised no-one has picked up this point!

Many electric cookers and gas hobs are supplied with a 13A 3-pin plug now. Which means you can plug them into a standard 13A socket. Sticking a standard 13A socket into a cupboard is not against regs, as far as I know.

So the issue of installing a cooker plate and running cables could be academic.

 

[Big_Spark]

Which means you can plug them into a standard 13A socket. Sticking a standard 13A socket into a cupboard is not against regs, as far as I know.
quote]

That is true, but the design has to be robust (circuit/installation) enough to justify this as they (the IEE and NICEIC) will complain about bad design.

Obviously were an appliance is sited there is no free access to the socket, but usually these have FCU's above the worktop to isolate them.

This is a grey area the building regs could actually clear-up, but I'll bet they won't!!