Changing from a gas cooker to an electric one

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Hi, as the title says, I'm looking at changing my single gas oven/hob to either a dual fuel or all electric freestanding double oven/hob.
There is currently no cooker ccu, so my questions are:
Is 6mm t+e ok directly from the consumer unit - coming out of the 30a rated fuse connection to a cooker switch, then from the ccu to the cooker, again in 6mm t+e or 6mm flex?
Second question, does the cooker switch have to be on the tiled wall which will cause a headache and mess as i no longer have any matching tiles - or is is ok to be concealed within a cupboard which will be less than 1.5m away from the cooker, this cupboard is to the right of the cooker NOT above it?

Thanks.
 
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what is the total power kW of the cooker?

6.0 twin and eath can be used as flex.

there are good reasons why a cooker switch is situated above a worktop as rapid isolation can be provided in an emergency. also there is a theory that electrical accessories should only be fitted to the main fabric of the building ie walls.
however, in the real world people do fit switches in cupboards for ease of installation, including the reason you have given.
 
1. Do not purchase an electric hob of any description. If you are used to gas, you'll hate it.

2. 10mm² should be used to allow for future expansion, but with the MCB sized appropriately for the load using I=P/V (current in amps = power in watts, divided by, voltage).

3. The circuit should be RCD protected.

4. An electric hob generally requires its own circuit, a single electric oven generally can be plugged into a 13 amp socket, as can a gas hob.

If you dont want to disturb tiling etc, then single electric oven + gas hob is the way to go.

Expensive taste in wine, btw. :LOL:
 
Maybe be able get the Mrs to agree to a dual fuel type, i.e gas hob electric oven - but she insists it must be a double oven.
Not decided on a make/model yet but most likely to be a standard 60cm type, she likes the look of the cannon range, i think these, for the dual fuel type are rated to 4.5kw.
Is 6mm cable ok for this and does the switch HAVE to be above work surface to comply with regs, i will be running in the cable myself to save labour costs and get a fully qualified electrician to do the connection at the cooker and the consumer unit.
I was also adviced, can't remember where - not to have a double oven wired in to an RCD as these are notorious for earth leakages????????

Thanks for the replies
 
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6.0 mm is fine for 4.5 kW. how is this cable to be installed?
will the cable at any point be less than 50 mm deep concealed in wall? if so rcd protection would be required. are you intending including a socket within the cooker switch?
 
I was also adviced, can't remember where - not to have a double oven wired in to an RCD as these are notorious for earth leakages
Heating elements may have a small amount of leakage current. A few mA possibly.
However if an oven or any other household appliance is causing an RCD to trip, it is defective and should not be used until it is repaired (or replaced).
 
Not decided on a make/model yet but most likely to be a standard 60cm type, she likes the look of the cannon range, i think these, for the dual fuel type are rated to 4.5kw.

Pleas do not assume power ratings. Some appliances are rated much higher than you would think.
Find the appliance you want, research the requirement and have power feeds installed to provide for the load(s).

I have seen electric hobs that need a 10mm² cable on their own.
 
i will be running in the cable myself to save labour costs and get a fully qualified electrician to do the connection at the cooker and the consumer unit.

As it is in the kitchen he will have to be able to see ALL the cable along its entire length to satisfy himself it is in the correct safety zones etc before he can legally sign it off as being compliant. He is also the best person to advise you on what size cable to use when you do decide on an appliance.
 

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