Cooker hood, earth or not?

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Hi all I'm thinking about fitting a cooker hood to a replacement kitchen, I bought it secondhand but it's a Cooke and Lewis model from Screwfix.

Should I connect the earth or not please? The Screwfix website itself says not to as it's a Class II device, but I can't find the double square symbol anywhere on the device, just an earth symbol on the back plate where the hanging holes are.
 
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That is not the deciding factor. It could be a standard part.

Some baths have an earth tag and symbol.
 
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Hi yes it has a flex coming out of the top where the chimney would be, 3 core.

It's all connected to a plug at the minute as the bloke wired one up to demonstrate it still worked, but when installed it had been hardwired.
 
I've come across similar in a holiday let. The cooker hood was stainless steel but plugged in with a 2 core cable.
This made me think, so I looked up the model and yes, it was double insulated.
The trouble was, it was attached to the wall pinching the mains lead so tightly it had split; the live was almost touching the metal case.
My take away from this: if you want to earth it you can!
I did remove the fuse and report the problem to the holiday company!
 
Thanks for everyone's replies, I've contacted the person who sold it, no instruction manual but they reckoned wired up with three wires.

It is from Screwfix and the one I've bought looks the same visually but perhaps a different model.

I've taken off the internal cover and the live and neutral go to the board and the earth connects to an earth point on the inside of the backplate.

So should I earth it please?

What happens if you do earth a double insulated appliance?

If I were to use a maintenance free box above the ceiling to join the cooker hood wiring to the old extractor fan wiring would a 32A rated Debox or similar suffice?
 

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So should I earth it please?
You may as well.

What happens if you do earth a double insulated appliance?
It becomes like any other earthed appliance.
It's just that DI is considered safer in the event of a fault elsewhere - i.e. won't become live.

If I were to use a maintenance free box above the ceiling to join the cooker hood wiring to the old extractor fan wiring would a 32A rated Debox or similar suffice?
An MF one, yes.
 
Label says 220-240V @ 50 Hz. 230W max.

But then says the lamps (2x 20W) are at 12V max...
 

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