Cooker Hood Switch

6 Nov 2009
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United Kingdom
I am in the process of upgrading the kitchen.

The manufacturer states that "the cooker hood is fitted with a 2 core mains cable and must be permanently connected to the electricity supply via a double pole switch. A switched FCU fitted with a 3 amp fuse is a recommended mains supply connection".

The builder had the original cooker hood connected via an unfused fan switch through a 13amp unswitched socket with a 3amp fused plug.

I would like to simply connect the new cooker hood into the same system without having to have new sockets/switches. I would also like to connect the low wattage under cupboard lights into the existing switch and socket so that the cooker hood light and the under cupboard lights all activate at the same time. Is this ok?
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For neatness you can replace the fan switch with a SFCU with a 3a fuse. If the under cupboard lights are near enough they can also be connected. You should be aware that any new fittings or wiring in the kitchen may be notifiable.
Thanks for your reply.

Would you mind answering two supplementaries related to the question?

The existing switch is 270mm diagonally from the hob. Is the 300mm distance for switches from hobs, a recommendation or a regulation?

What would be the appropriate connection for the under cupboard lighting to the existing socket in tandem with the cooker hood?

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Thanks again.

The SFCU would be 120mm above the worktop in line with all the other switches.

The socket for the cooker hood which would be connected to the SFCU is inside the cooker hood chimney cover, ie the cover conceals the ducting.
Any suggestions on how to link both the cooker hood and the low wattage under kitchen unit lights to the one socket point. I want to be able to switch the cooker hood lights and under unit lights on at the same time from the one SFCU.

There is a large horizontal wooden stud that prevebts a connection from the SFCU to the under unit lights, so it would have to come from the socket at the cooker hood.
There is a large horizontal wooden stud that prevebts a connection from the SFCU to the under unit lights
Cut a square of plasterboard away where the noggin is, drill a hole/cut a notch in the noggin, pass the cable through the hole, repair the plasterboard.

Is the circuit RCD protected?
Thanks for your reply.

Is it within the regs to notch noggins then plaster over?

Yes it is RCD protected.
Thanks for the reference.

It would be easier for me to have the SFCU feed a juncion box (5amp?) and connect the cooker hood and under kitchen unit lights to the junction box. This would then enable simultaneous operation.

Would it be acceptable?
Might be easier - you're the person best placed to say.

Where would you put the JB? It should be accessible.

Do you never cook in daylight? Your plan would mean you'd have to have the lights on if you wanted the cooker hood on....
The under unit lights are individually switched. However, I take your point, it would be tedious to go around switching off 3 sets of U.C lights everytime we wanted to have the extractor on.

I am trying to solve this layout as simply as possible and with the least change to the wiring system. So would it be acceptable under the regs to:

1. Change a 13 amp socket (intended for TV) which is positioned just above the wall units but near to the cooker hood, to a SFCU and run a cable to the hood via a cable only socket? The manufacturer states that it must be permanently connected. The SFCU could be permanently switched to on and the C.H. and integral light could be switched from the hood controls.

2. Have a SFCU at worktop level supply a 5 amp junction box above the wall units to feed the under unit lighting?


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