Cooker loads ??

[Chri5]

Now I know I should simply standardise the supply to a cooker as 40A, if not for the clients, then for future users / for ease of adjustment if cooker changed or new people move in.

But what are the real world consumptions of the modern day (energy conscious) all electric cookers, or components such as gas oven with fan assist or ceramic hobs? Does anyone have any decent site links that offer model ratings ?

I've checked out ceramic hobs and a standard 4 hob tends to use 1.8kw-2kw. So a f/spur for a built in unit would be fine.

What about double ovens? Most I've found tend to be 1.8kw upper / grill and 2.4kw main.

So would a standard stand alone fully electric double oven with 4 ceramic hobs work out at 1.8kw + 1.8kw + 2.4kw = 6kw

Would a standard double oven built in unit be 4.2kw

Since a 40A cooker point, cable and MCB allow for a load of 9.2kw why does the industry standardise at 40A when most cooker draws nowhere near that.

Or is it as simple as there not being a range of switches over 20a other than a 40a switch

Just thinking 20A circuits and 20A cost savings over 40A, especially since 90% of work seems to be dual fuel houses with gas and electric being used for cooking- Gas for hobs and electric for ovens seems the norm.

 

[scott6471]

On the contrary Chri5, the IEE guide to the building regs (to name but one point of reference) standardises the cooker circuits at 32A now, i guess for the very reasons you've highlighted.

32A accessories are readily available.

See the following page http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK5105.html

You could however use the 45A type as at least they have the benefit of the extra socket (the difference is about £5 for MK)

Scott

 

[davy_owen_88]

I've checked out ceramic hobs and a standard 4 hob tends to use 1.8kw-2kw. So a f/spur for a built in unit would be fine.

That is per ring, not for all 4. A fused spur would not be suitable for an electric hob.

 

[JohnD]

... at least they have the benefit of the extra socket

Not a benefit IMO.

 

[Steve]

What JohnD means is it is not nessecary to RCD protect a cooker. It is however nessecary to protect the socket outlet, as it could be reasonably expected to provide power outdoors, if it is on the ground floor. And most sparks will RCD all kitchen sockets anyway.

IMO, those socket/cooker switch combos are a leftover from the 70's, when designers were coming out with all sorts of wacky electrical combinations. Stick to a 45A switch.

 

[JohnD]

and electric cookers are very prone to nuisance tripping. No socket on the CCU means you don't need to put it on an RCD.

p.s. Steve is too young to know that they were introduced many years ago, when houses had very few sockets. They were a method of getting an extra socket for your cooker without having to pay an electrician extra to install a new one. This gave the householders the ability to conveniently trail their kettle flex over the hob, so it could be melted

 

[Taylortwocities]

 

[securespark]

....those socket/cooker switch combos are a leftover from the 70's, when designers were coming out with all sorts of wacky electrical combinations.

Remember those Nettle Combi plates with a cooker switch, immersion switch & double socket, all fed from their own circuits?

A pain to replace... One accessory that died out....wonder why?

 

[Chri5]

and electric cookers are very prone to nuisance tripping. No socket on the CCU means you don't need to put it on an RCD.

p.s. Steve is too young to know that they were introduced many years ago, when houses had very few sockets. They were a method of getting an extra socket for your cooker without having to pay an electrician extra to install a new one. This gave the householders the ability to conveniently trail their kettle flex over the hob, so it could be melted

LoL