Cooker Switch Dilemma

[karlywarly]

Hi guys,

I had a kitchen fitted a couple of years ago which came with a solid plate hob and was wired to a cooker switch.

I removed the cable from the switch when replacing hob to a gas one.

Original oven was fitted with a 13amp fuse and plug into kitchen cabinet. I have now bought an under counter double oven which is 20amp and have tried to feed the cable back to the cooker switch to power it although having no joy due to access.

My question is that can I change the cooker switch to a double socket and cut the cable under the kitchen cabinet and connect it to a junction box, relocate cooker switch to inside cupboard adjacent to where oven will be fitted and take a feed from there?

Current fuse is a 32amp so would need to change this to a 45amp fuse?

Also cable used is 6mm.

Any comments or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[EFLImpudence]

I removed the cable from the switch when replacing hob to a gas one.

Why?

Original oven was fitted with a 13amp fuse and plug into kitchen cabinet.

I have now bought an under counter double oven which is 20amp and have tried to feed the cable back to the cooker switch to power it although having no joy due to access.
My question is that can I change the cooker switch to a double socket and cut the cable under the kitchen cabinet and connect it to a junction box, relocate cooker switch to inside cupboard adjacent to where oven will be fitted and take a feed from there?

No, but If you can do that, why can't you connect the oven properly.

Current fuse is a 32amp so would need to change this to a 45amp fuse?

No you wouldn't.

Also cable used is 6mm.

Ok.

Any comments or advice would be appreciated.

I think you require an electrician.

 

[karlywarly]

Apologies if I am not being clear enough.

The cable was removed in haste as I thought we wouldn't use it.

I have the cable that goes into the cooker switch from the consumer unit but I cannot get a cable back to this to then feed the oven.

I can access this cable under the kitchen unit and wanted to know if I could relocate the cooker switch using a junction box to a cupboard adjacent to where the oven will be fitted and convert the current position of the cooker switch into a double socket.

I wouldn't have to put a blanking plate on then and would gain an extra socket.

 

[EFLImpudence]

I have the cable that goes into the cooker switch from the consumer unit but I cannot get a cable back to this to then feed the oven.

I am afraid you will have to for a 20A oven.

 

[JohnW2]

I have now bought an under counter double oven which is 20amp...

Could you tell us the make and model of this "20A oven"?

Kind Regards, John

 

[karlywarly]

Could you tell us the make and model of this "20A oven"?

Kind Regards, John

Oven is a Whirlpool AKL 307 IX

Product page is: https://www.whirlpool.co.uk/applian...r-double-oven-in-inox-and-black/859991542450/

 

[JohnW2]

Oven is a Whirlpool AKL 307 IX Product page is: https://www.whirlpool.co.uk/applian...r-double-oven-in-inox-and-black/859991542450/

Right. As you say, it is said to be "20A", which I assume is the maximum current drawn. After allowing for 'diversity' (which takes into account the fact that all bits of the oven will not be drawing current for lengthy periods of time), that can be regarded as a current of 13A - hence 'just' low enough for 13A accessories (like plugs and sockets, and FCUs) - and the ('wordless') installation instructions appear to show it being 'plugged in'. Do I take it that it didn't come with a cable with a plug on the end?

Having said that, the 'exactly 13A' (after diversity) is pretty marginal, so I would not personally be too keen to 'plug it in'.

Kind Regards, John

 

[EFLImpudence]

and the ('wordless') installation instructions appear to show it being 'plugged in'.

Are you sure?

 

[JohnW2]

Are you sure?

Not at all - these wordless instructions drive me mad, and I think (as witness this incident) are potentially dangerous.

Now you raise the issue, you're probably right (in implying that I was wrong!). At my initial look, I thought that the drawing on the left (which is NOT 'crossed out') was indicating a man ('legitimately') 'plugging it in', and that the crossed-out bit in the middle was indicating that it should not be used with extension leads, plug in timers or WiFi switches etc. ! However, now you've made me reflect, I agree that was probably the wrong interpretation.

In an event, what are your feelings about the fact that the after-diversity load is exactly 13A (if the 20A is at 230V, but <13A if, as is probable, the 20A relates to 240V)?

Kind Regards, John

 

[flameport]

My question is that can I change the cooker switch to a double socket and cut the cable under the kitchen cabinet and connect it to a junction box, relocate cooker switch to inside cupboard adjacent to where oven will be fitted and take a feed from there?

Meaning this:

then yes, you can. Using the same size 6mm² cable throughout.

The only minor item is the isolator being in a cupboard which is not ideal for accessibility.

 

[EFLImpudence]

In an event, what are your feelings about the fact that the after-diversity load is exactly 13A (if the 20A is at 230V, but <13A if, as is probable, the 20A relates to 240V)?

I would not do it.

Plus - it is not necessary in this thread's situation.
There is a cooker circuit which has had the previous hob cable removed. I don't understand why it can't - or shouldn't - be reinstated.

 

[JohnW2]

I would not do it.

That's what I expected - and is the reason why I said that I "would not be keen" (which was probably an understatement.

Plus - it is not necessary in this thread's situation.

I realised that, but was nevertheless interested in your view - which would be relevant in most of the situations we hear about.

Kind Regards, John