Cooking it up

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Hi all.

Brand-newbie here looking for some genuine help and advice. I'm after some assistance on a cooker/switch issue.

We had an old dual fuel cooker removed and a gas one installed. The old cooker was wired to the electric spur(?) in the wall behind which ran up to the cooker switch.

The new cooker (ZANUSSI - ZKG5540XFN) albeit gas powered has an electronic timer/clock. The lovely chaps from Currys wouldn't hardwire the cooker into the wall where the old one was wired as the cooker has a fitted plug. They just plugged it into a socket which means the power cord is in the way.

My question is: Am I able to just remove the plug from the cooker and wire it into the wall where the old spur(?) is? This is still connected to the cooker switch on the wall. I want the cooker to be connected to the cooker on/off switch properly.

I have been told I need a 3amp fuse in this spur socket. I don't see why as the cooker has it's own fuse on main the fuse box. The new cooker isnt electric so its really just the electronic timer/oven light etc that is being powered.

I appreciate your kind help.

Thanks
Simon





 
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Is the spur a fused connection unit or is a socket?

Is the cooker switch on its own circuit - and what is the size of the cable and the MCB?

If the cooker comes with a sealed plug then you must read the instructions that came with the cooker - if you fail to follow them you may invalidate your warranty.

The wire from the cooker socket to the fcu or socket must match the circuit wire - i.e. 6mm.

Assuming the manufacturer allows you have several options

You can cut the plug and connect the cable to the fcu using a 3amp fuse.

or

You can leave the plug alone except ensuring it has a 3 amp fuse and change the fcu for a socket and plug it in.

The size of the fuse must always be less than the current capacity of the cable - hence the 3amp for the cooker cable itself.
 
The old cooker was wired to the electric spur(?) in the wall behind which ran up to the cooker switch.
That's not a spur, it's a cooker outlet plate and is, crucially, unfused.


The lovely chaps from Currys wouldn't hardwire the cooker into the wall where the old one was wired as the cooker has a fitted plug.
Actually they were lovely, as what you thought they should do is unsafe.


They just plugged it into a socket which means the power cord is in the way.
That's not good. What do you mean by "in the way"? Is there another socket which would be more convenient?

My question is: Am I able to just remove the plug from the cooker and wire it into the wall where the old spur(?) is?
No.


This is still connected to the cooker switch on the wall. I want the cooker to be connected to the cooker on/off switch properly.
Is the cooker switch the type with a socket?


I have been told I need a 3amp fuse in this spur socket. I don't see why as the cooker has it's own fuse on main the fuse box.
I'm sure it does, but it won't be a 3A one.

1) The maker specifies a 3A fuse.

2) Read this, and think about the size of the flex supplying the cooker: //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:mcbtocable

Why not replace the cooker outlet plate with a socket and plug the cooker in there?
 
The old cooker was wired to the electric spur(?) in the wall behind which ran up to the cooker switch.
That's not a spur, it's a cooker outlet plate and is, crucially, unfused.?


How do you know it is not an fcu or a single socket?

The original cooker was dual fuel, it is possible that the electric oven side was just plugged in a socket or connected to a 13amp fcu in the wall behind.
 
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Well - it's not a socket, or the OP wouldn't be asking the question or having a problem.

You're right - in general it could be an FCU, but in this case if it was then surely the OP would not be asking about whether he really needs a 3A fuse because "the cooker has it's own fuse on main the fuse box" - he'd just stick a 3A fuse in the FCU and crack on, surely?
 
Well - it's not a socket, or the OP wouldn't be asking the question or having a problem.

You're right - in general it could be an FCU, but in this case if it was then surely the OP would not be asking about whether he really needs a 3A fuse because "the cooker has it's own fuse on main the fuse box" - he'd just stick a 3A fuse in the FCU and crack on, surely?

Agreed - If the manufacturers instructions allow - and most do then that is the simplest thing to do.
 
That's not a spur, it's a cooker outlet plate and is, crucially, unfused.
---Sorry, I was just stating what a Zanussi technician said ;)

Actually they were lovely, as what you thought they should do is unsafe.
---The old cooker was wired this way so why can't I do the same to the new one? I'm now assuming it shouldn't have been in the first place from what you tell me. FYI the fridge and washing machine also seem to be wired into an 'outlet plate' which is then wired to an on/off switch up at worktop level.

That's not good. What do you mean by "in the way"? Is there another socket which would be more convenient?
---The power lead now comes from the back of the cooker, trails up over the worktop and is plugged into a socket. Why would you think this is convenient? The flex is loose on the worktop. I only want it wired in to the wall as before so I can use the on/off switch of the proper cooker socket (red switch)

Is the cooker switch the type with a socket?
---Yes the cooker is currently plugged into this socket.

I'm sure it does, but it won't be a 3A one.
---So do I need to put one in somewhere then? Where?

Why not replace the cooker outlet plate with a socket and plug the cooker in there?
---I can try this yes. The wiring will still go from this point up to the cooker switch, so I can effectively turn it off from there.

Thanks I'll give it a go.
Simon.
 

I'm not at home right now otherwise a photo would be easier, but this is a diagram (no laughs!) of what I currently have and what I want to do.

I'm a bit worried that there will be a load issue. Is it ok to turn the existing (dormant) outlet from the cooker switch into a 3 pin plug socket? Will the cooker be fed too much power?

Like I have said before the power is needed to the cooker only for the timer/light etc not for cooking as it is a gas cooker.


Simon
 
Could you use [quote] [/quote] like everybody else? Makes life much easier.


The old cooker was wired this way so why can't I do the same to the new one?
1) Because the manufacturer specifies a 3A fuse.

2) Because (probably) the cooker flex would be unsafe on the rating of fuse/MCB used for the cooker circuit. Did you not read the Wiki article I pointed you at?


I'm now assuming it shouldn't have been in the first place from what you tell me.
Don't know - depends on the rating of the circuit and the size of cable on the old cooker.


FYI the fridge and washing machine also seem to be wired into an 'outlet plate' which is then wired to an on/off switch up at worktop level.
And the "outlet plates" are not unswitched FCUs and the switches above the worktops are not switched FCUs?


So do I need to put one in somewhere then? Where?
There's one in the plug already, so if you replace the cooker outlet plate with a socket you'll be all set.
 

I'm not at home right now otherwise a photo would be easier, but this is a diagram (no laughs!) of what I currently have and what I want to do.

I'm a bit worried that there will be a load issue. Is it ok to turn the existing (dormant) outlet from the cooker switch into a 3 pin plug socket? Will the cooker be fed too much power?

Like I have said before the power is needed to the cooker only for the timer/light etc not for cooking as it is a gas cooker.



Simon


What you propose is fine - provided the plug is fused to the correct level as per manufacturers instructions and you feel confident in changing the fcu to a socket.
As for load - a clock and a sparker are not going to trouble the scorers.
 
I'm a bit worried that there will be a load issue. Is it ok to turn the existing (dormant) outlet from the cooker switch into a 3 pin plug socket? Will the cooker be fed too much power?
No.

Think about it - it's already plugged into a socket which is on the cooker circuit.

And what's the rating of the fuses/MCBs supplying all your other socket circuits anyway?
 
Just a quick thought there about the cooker switch with the built in socket.
You wouldn't run a ring main in 6mm cable. Why then are cooker switches allowed to have a socket built in to them?
 
Just a quick thought there about the cooker switch with the built in socket.
You wouldn't run a ring main in 6mm cable. Why then are cooker switches allowed to have a socket built in to them?

Straight answer is why not!

The cooker circuit as described is a radial and is not limited to the number of spurs it can have only the area that it covers.

Cooker switches are rated at 45 amps but the plugs that are connected to its socket are fused down to 13Amps or lower.
 

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