Wiring a cooker hood's DP fused unit to the cooker's socket?

[Sprogginz]

Hi,

I want to install a cooker hood. The electrics need to be connected to a DP fused spur unit.

At the moment, there is a 2-Gang 45A DP Cooker Switch with 13A Switched Plug Socket at worktop level with the cooker's socket behind the cooker. I don't use this since I have gas.

Next to the cooker's socket is a disused socket that now has a blank plate instead.

Quite simply, can this disused socket be replaced with the DP fused spur unit for the cooker hood and wired to the cooker's socket for power?

This would be excellent if possible since it requires minimum disruption.

Thanks very much.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

By your description it sounds very much possible that you could use blanked socket for DP FCU.
You would need to confirm the circuit is a radial socket used for the cooker and that the circuit is still suitable for continued use.
Please make yourself aware of the permitted safe zones of cables buried in walls and the additional protection of cables that require RCD protection.
You can find this info in Wiki

 

[riveralt]

Quite simply, can this disused socket be replaced with the DP fused spur unit for the cooker hood and wired to the cooker's socket for power?

This would be excellent if possible since it requires minimum disruption.

Yes you can - however you will need to be aware that the old cooker circuit will probably have a 32Amp MCB protecting it so the cable that comes from the cooker switch into the Fused Connection Unit should be the same size as the old cooker circuit - probably 6mm ² T&E.
You can run 1mm ² T&E or from the FCU to your cooker hood - though remember you still need to comply with the safe zones.

Note it might be better to use a suitably rated terminal strip and connect the two cables inside the blank before running up to a new FCU nearer the Cooker Hood. This would make it easier to keep with the safe zones.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

By your description it sounds very much possible that you could use blanked socket for DP FCU.
You would need to confirm the circuit is a radial socket used for the cooker and that the circuit is still suitable for continued use.
Please make yourself aware of the permitted safe zones of cables buried in walls and the additional protection of cables that require RCD protection.
You can find this info in Wiki //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:installation_techniques:walls

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Yes you can - however you will need to be aware that the old cooker circuit will probably have a 32Amp MCB protecting it so the cable that comes from the cooker switch into the Fused Connection Unit should be the same size as the old cooker circuit - probably 6mm ² T&E.
You can run 1mm ² T&E or from the FCU to your cooker hood - though remember you still need to comply with the safe zones.

Note it might be better to use a suitably rated terminal strip and connect the two cables inside the blank before running up to a new FCU nearer the Cooker Hood. This would make it easier to keep with the safe zones.

I believe the op is wanting to change the blanked out plate to the FCU and then add a socket outlet at the ex-fan, rather than use to join cables.
So really 2.5mm would be a more informed choice of cable rather than 1.00mm. Although personally I would down fuse at FCU and add flex outlet plate at ex-fan.

 

[Sprogginz]

Thanks for all your replies and the link for cable guidance.

Some of the terminology has gone over my head but I'm learning as I go along.

I will pull the cooker out, take a photo of everything in one shot and add a few arrows etc so you can see what I'm on about.

Just to try to clarify a bit more, I do want to replace the blank plate with the FCU where it will get it's power from the cooker socket next to it by wiring it together. The cooker socket is in turn wired to the 2-Gang 45A DP Cooker Switch with 13A Switched Plug Socket at worktop level.

I want to run the cable from the FCU to the extractor straight up wall in the cavity.

 

[Sprogginz]

Hi again,

Hope everyone had a good weekend and didn't get too sweaty!

I've uploaded a photo with description where hopefully you can tell me if my plan is possible.

The cables running to each other should be within the required guidelines?

Thanks again.

Untitled

• Sprogginz
• 15 Jul 2013
• 1

 

[JohnW2]

Yes you can - however you will need to be aware that the old cooker circuit will probably have a 32Amp MCB protecting it so the cable that comes from the cooker switch into the Fused Connection Unit should be the same size as the old cooker circuit - probably 6mm ² T&E.

What about 433.2.2 / 434.2.1 ? Given that it looks as if the proposed cable will be only a few inches long, and will be completely enclosed/protected within back-boxes, I would have thought this would be a very reasonable situation in which to invoke those regs, wouldn't it?

Kind Regards, John

 

[riveralt]

Yes you can - however you will need to be aware that the old cooker circuit will probably have a 32Amp MCB protecting it so the cable that comes from the cooker switch into the Fused Connection Unit should be the same size as the old cooker circuit - probably 6mm ² T&E.

What about 433.2.2 / 434.2.1 ? Given that it looks as if the proposed cable will be only a few inches long, and will be completely enclosed/protected within back-boxes, I would have thought this would be a very reasonable situation in which to invoke those regs, wouldn't it?

Kind Regards, John

Yes - the picture the op painted in my mind and the picture uploaded are different - so this regulation could apply.
But having seen the photograph there are two additional issues that might need to be addressed.
Firstly, the location of the DP FCU is hidden behind the gas cooker - so isolation access could be an issue.
Secondly, while one assumes that the cooker hood will be directly above the gas cooker/hob running the cable up to it through the cavity, I am led to believe is not allowed. Of course if the OP means the cavity of a stud partition wall then that is okay.
Personally, I would want to be able to disconnect the cooker hood without having to pull the gas cooker out.

I would therefore use the spare/empty box as a jb and legally run the cable up to a DP switch/single socket above the cooker hood then use flex/plug to connect the hood to the power. That way you have isolation access without the need to disconnect the gas cooker each time.
Alternatively you could use the spare box as an DP switch and run up to a socket above the hood and connect to the hood via a plug.

 

[JohnW2]

Yes - the picture the op painted in my mind and the picture uploaded are different - so this regulation could apply.

Indeed. In fact, if one didn't feel that one could invoke 433.2.2 / 434.2.1 in this situation, it's hard to imagine what situation one would feel it could be invoked!

But having seen the photograph there are two additional issues that might need to be addressed. ... Firstly, the location of the DP FCU is hidden behind the gas cooker - so isolation access could be an issue.

Yes, but it's not so much the location of the FCU (which could be unswitched) that's the issue as to if/where there is a means of isolating the hood supply.

Secondly, while one assumes that the cooker hood will be directly above the gas cooker/hob running the cable up to it through the cavity, I am led to believe is not allowed. Of course if the OP means the cavity of a stud partition wall then that is okay.

You were thinking of the cavity of a cavity wall? If so, it's certainly not now regarded as good practice - although I'm not sure, off the top of my head, whether there is a reg which specifically forbids it.

Personally, I would want to be able to disconnect the cooker hood without having to pull the gas cooker out.
I would therefore use the spare/empty box as a jb and legally run the cable up to a DP switch/single socket above the cooker hood then use flex/plug to connect the hood to the power. That way you have isolation access without the need to disconnect the gas cooker each time. ... Alternatively you could use the spare box as an DP switch and run up to a socket above the hood and connect to the hood via a plug.

Indeed - or, if one wanted to hard-wire the hood, one could use the 'spare box' as a JB and wire it to a switched FCU for the hood, or, alternatively, use it for an unswitched FCU and wire that to a DP switch (and possibly a flex outlet plate) for the hood.

Kind Regards, John

 

[Sprogginz]

Thank you so much for the replies I really appreciate it.

Judging by your responses it seems the issue of running the cable up to the extractor within the cavity of the wall is permitted.

I know what you mean about access to an isolation switch but if I just use the cooker switch at worktop level then shouldn't that be okay since it will just cut off everything down below?

Regarding the permitted wiring between the cooker socket and the DP FSU, is it permitted just to replace both units with just a double one that has the DP FSU and a socket?

If not, how would I connect the separate units together in a permitted way if possible?

Thanks again.

 

[Sprogginz]

Hi again,

Can someone give me a little more advice please. Have a look at these photos:

Untitled

• Sprogginz
• 20 Jul 2013
• 1

Untitled

• Sprogginz
• 20 Jul 2013
• 1

Judging by these, is there now any way I can power a cooker hood and if so how?

They seem connected but why would they just not use the existing [now blanked off] socket instead of putting the new one in to power the cooker?

 

[Iggifer]

the one on the left is a cooker connection unit.

if you look at the bottom of the plastic faceplate there will be a gap for the cooker cable to come out of

if you have a 32a mcb for this circuit at the fuseboard (I didnt check the rest of the thread thoroughly enough) put both of these cables into the supply side of an FCU as planned, and then your new cable into the load side, job done.