cooker socket help please

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hi
i have a cooker socket 45A 2-Gang DP Cooker Switch & 13A DP Switched Socket White
its a 6mm cable on CU covered by a 32rcd and the oven is 4.4kw
at the moment i`m using the spare socket to run the microwave
my question is can i use this socket and attach a double adapter to run the microwave and the cooker hood extra fan from this socket
why I ask all upstairs has wooden floors no way to run a spur to the hood
easy to run a cable on top of cupboard to hood
thanks paul
 
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Yes. Providing that the double adaptor is fused (13A Max) then all OK.
Not the most elegant of solutions but hey ho.
Personally, when I fit a cooker switch I fit just a plain switch and not a cooker control unit with a socket on it.
The reasoning being that I think the socket is a throwback to the days we had very few sockets.
Indeed go back far enough and you`d find that most homes had one socket on ground floor and one socket on the first floor and that was it.
If an electric oven was fitted then a socket on the cooker switch was intended for occasional use of a kettle so no problem.
Inevitably folk started using that socket for washing machines and tumble driers etc.
 
I don't understand how the upstairs floor boards affect running a cable from cooker switch to hood.
 
Perhaps in an Up/Over/down continuum to maintain zone of protection ? I`m only guessing though ELFI
 
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With any device plugged into a wall socket be it part of cooker switch or not, you need to consider the weight being hung from the socket, and will it over time work out, I have loads of adaptors plugged in, as floors are sheets not floor boards so a big job likely remove ceiling to add cables, most there are no problems with, one in kitchen seems to work its way out over time, but we intend to refurbish the kitchen and it will be done then. I prefer a socket bar extension lead so I can use the key hole slots in back to fix to the wall, but you have to decide what with both work and look good, and use common sense.
 

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