What sockets are required?

[CJRatch]

Hi there, thanks for your time.

So Ive had the first fix electrics installed in my kitchen the electrician is coming out to fit the second fix sometime next week on a labour basis only I'm supplying or rather buying the sockets etc ready for him to wire up and sign off.

Ive attached a rather rubbish paint diagram of the sockets I'm unsure about.



So the cooker is going to be hard wired to a socket directly behind the cooker. From there it will run to an isolation switch above the work tops. From there is runs directly to the consumer unit.

The hood is going to be run via a 3 pin plug to the socket above again with an isolator above the worktop. The hood wiring is apart of the sockets wiring ring.

My thinking is behind the cooker I will require,

MK 45A Cooker Connection - http://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-45a-cooker-connection-unit-white/16686#_=p

The hood socket Im presuming will just require a standard 13a single socket as its via a 3 pin plug - http://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-13a-1-gang-dp-switched-plug-socket-white/14790

Im struggling now as to what isolation switches I need. I cant seem to find any 45a single socket isolations switches made by MK.

For the hood isolator is this okay -
http://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-13a-dp-switched-fused-connection-unit-with-flex-outlet-white/13479

The socket will be 13a and the isolator 13a so presume this will suffice?

Any advice appreciated folks. Im hoping to pick all the bits up tomorrow. The sparky isnt on the end of the phone on weekends otherwise Id have asked him.

Cheers!

 

[JohnD]

yes, I know the electrician you mean, he's often mentioned on here.

 

[CJRatch]

You may also know the building inspector that I paid over £500 for to sign this extension off, sadly he won't do so without an electricians signature.

Otherwise, you'd be right Mr Sarcastic.

 

[flameport]

I cant seem to find any 45a single socket isolations switches made by MK.

They do not make one. If you want MK, then this: http://www.diy.com/departments/mk-logic-plus-32a-white-single-switch-with-neon/189595_BQ.prd
is the only one in a single plate size.
It's not clear what cooking appliance(s) you have - the diagram states oven & hob, the description states cooker.
If it's a cooker, the single outlet plate can be used. If you have a separate oven & hob, a dual outlet will be required. MK do not make them either.
The hood connection can be a single socket, an unswitched type would be preferable if there is another isolation switch elsewhere.
The 13A FCU can be used, although a 20A switch would do just as well as you already have a fuse in the plug for the hood.
Or use the FCU (with 3A fuse) and a flex outlet plate for the hood.

 

[EFLImpudence]

If you have had first fix, surely your cables already in place? That's what first fix is.

So the cooker is going to be hard wired to a socket directly behind the cooker.

Hard wired or socket?

From there it will run to an isolation switch above the work tops. From there is runs directly to the consumer unit.

I know it's alternating current but the cable runs the other way - from CU

The hood is going to be run via a 3 pin plug to the socket above again with an isolator above the worktop. The hood wiring is apart of the sockets wiring ring.

Connect it to the cooker circuit, then it will go off with the hob when you have a chip pan fire.

My thinking is behind the cooker I will require,
MK 45A Cooker Connection

You said you were having a socket

The hood socket Im presuming will just require a standard 13a single socket as its via a 3 pin plug

Yes, of course.

Im struggling now as to what isolation switches I need. I cant seem to find any 45a single socket isolations switches made by MK.

Nope, can't find MK one - buy another make for all accessories.
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p12273?searchstr=cooker switche
http://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-1-gang-45a-dp-cooker-switch-with-neon-white/49779

For the hood isolator is this okay

Yes

The socket will be 13a and the isolator 13a so presume this will suffice?

You will fit a 3A fuse. You don't need both.



Can the hob be plugged in?
Isn't there a second cable to the socket?

 

[CJRatch]

Hi guys,

Thanks for your replies sorry if its confusing. To explain more, as I said the extension is being done legit through building control however Im trying to do the first and second fix on a show string so I fixed all the back boxes, had an electrician fit the cables etc ensuring they were all ran in the right zones and he said once the plastering is done buy all the sockets and he'll come to wire them and sign the lot off. Thus why I'm sounding all a little vague here.

Flameport, thanks for your input. Looks like MK is out the window, I only intended to use them as the rest of the house double and single sockets are MK however for the isolation switches it doesnt really matter. To confirm the cooker is an all in one type so only has one cable.

EFL, again sorry for the vagueness. The cooker will be hard wired and now going from both of your advices its going to be hard wired to a 45a switchless plate behind the cooker, from there it will run to the 45a cooker isolation switch you posted.

The hood will run to a 13a 3 pin plug, I would use a switchless one however the hood already has a plug attached. From there to the 20a switch flameport recommended.

EFL your recommendation to run the hood to the same isolation as the cooker is a great thought however now its all been plastered etc I dont want to have to chop into it to move the cables as like I said the cooker is wired directly... from the consumer unit with no other cables involved on its own switch on the CU. So having the 2 isolation switches next to each other will do.

Thanks again for your advice guys think I know what I'm buying now.

 

[Iggifer]

https://www.electricalguys.co.uk/hager-50a-double-pole-switch-1gang-with-led-indicator-wmdp50n.html

Jus' saying. Better than MK now IMO

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Thanks for your replies sorry if its confusing. To explain more, as I said the extension is being done legit through building control however Im trying to do the first and second fix on a show string so I fixed all the back boxes, had an electrician fit the cables etc ensuring they were all ran in the right zones and he said once the plastering is done buy all the sockets and he'll come to wire them and sign the lot off.

What that says is that the electrician is going to lie.

What that says is that you and he are conspiring to commit a criminal offence.

Thus why I'm sounding all a little vague here.

Thus why you are not competent to be doing the design work yourself.

 

[securespark]

What that says is that the electrician is going to lie.

What that says is that you and he are conspiring to commit a criminal offence.

This from another forum:

If you are an electrician, and you consider that because of your qualifications and experience you are competent to inspect and test electrical installations and issue an EIC in respect of inspection and testing, NICEIC have no legal authority to stop you.

Inspecting and Testing somebody elses work, and issuing an appropriate EIC is nothing to do with the Building Regulations.

Inspecting and Testing somebody elses work, and issuing an appropriate EIC is not certifying compliance with the Building Regulations.

If LABC ask you to inspect and test an installation they are not asking you to certify compliance with the Building Regulations.

If a "non-approved" installer asks you to inspect & test his work he is not asking you to certify compliance with the Building Regulations.

The status of somebody vis-a-vis self certification of compliance with the Building Regulations is of no relevance whatsoever when it comes to Inspecting and Testing their work, and issuing an appropriate EIC.

More here:
http://www.theiet.org/forums/forum/...id=5253&STARTPAGE=1&FTVAR_FORUMVIEWTMP=Linear

 

[ban-all-sheds]

That's all true.

So do you think it likely that Building Control are accepting the OP's signature for Design and for Construction on a 3-part EIC?

 

[JohnW2]

So do you think it likely that Building Control are accepting the OP's signature for Design and for Construction on a 3-part EIC?

I'm a bit confused. This ....

.... had an electrician fit the cables etc ensuring they were all ran in the right zones and he said once the plastering is done buy all the sockets and he'll come to wire them and sign the lot off.

... seems to imply that the electrician installed the cables and is going to connect all the accessories, which in turn seems to imply that the electrician also did the design. The only decision-making left to the OP seems to be the choice of accessories (as being discussed in this thread) and one would assume that if, for any reason, the electrician disagrees with any of the choices, will not be prepared to fit them.

Kind Regards, John

 

[CJRatch]

What that says is that the electrician is going to lie.

What that says is that you and he are conspiring to commit a criminal offence.



Thus why you are not competent to be doing the design work yourself.

I fitted the back boxes only, I was told the back boxes can go anywhere but not higher than the original house switches as its an extension not a new build so no restrictions on heights etc so long as the isolation switches were a certain measurement from the cooker which I can't remember right now. the electrician ran all cables in safe zones and connected them up to the CU. I've also purchased said sockets which the electrician is going to fit. I'm sure what I've purchased is correct but as mentioned if its wrong I'm pretty sure the electrician would pick up on it after all its his name going on the paperwork.

Last I knew fitting a few back boxes and making a trip to screwfix to buy a few sockets isn't a crime.

Criminal offence, go scare monger someone else.

 

[securespark]

That's all true.

So do you think it likely that Building Control are accepting the OP's signature for Design and for Construction on a 3-part EIC?

If indeed he was responsible for that, how could they not?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I'm a bit confused. This ....

... seems to imply that the electrician installed the cables and is going to connect all the accessories, which in turn seems to imply that the electrician also did the design.

It also implies that I didn't read it properly.

 

[securespark]

Go and stand in the corner, Sheds!