Cracking paint in bathroom

[Oonaghs]

Hi,

Would appreciate some thoughts on how to deal with cracking paint in bathroom - it's just on one wall which is the only exterior facing wall and that furthest from the shower etc - the other walls are ok. Attached is an image but basically there's lots of cracking of the paint and so in worst places you can basically flick it off in pieces revealing what I guess is the plaster below - some of which looks pink-ish (higher on wall) and some more grey (lower on wall below window). Attached is an image.

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• Oonaghs
• 20 Aug 2013
• 1

I'm planning to scrape off the paint so get back to plaster surface and then repaint but would appreciate any tips on likely cause of the cracking and how I should go about repainting and what paint/layers I should use so I can hopefully avoid similar problems!

Also have crack in plaster at wall join - image attached - any ideas on what I should use to fill that would also be appreciated.

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• Oonaghs
• 20 Aug 2013
• 1

Thanks for any help

 

[opps]

The cracking may be the result of condensation.

Although the wall is the furthest from the shower it is the coldest.

I am guessing that the finish paint is matt, a higher sheen would be advisable to prevent the paint from allowing the moisture to penetrate it.

If you don't have an extractor than I would definitely suggest that you fit one (people are loathed to open windows when it is cold).

If the current paint is matt emulsion then a stean stripper will make it easier to remove the paint but keep the palte moving, otherwise you might crack the plaster.

Red devil one time will be an ideal and easy to sand filler. Apply dilute matt emulsion to the bare plaster/filler first.

You can then use waterbased eggshell/silk emulsion/oilbased eggshell/(tinted) Zinnser BIN.

For speed of drying, water proofing, durability, I would opt for BIN but it is more expensive and the tinting might not give you the exact (but close) colour that you want. It is shellac suspended in alcohol so it will stink when you first apply it but the smell goes as it evaporates (about 20 minutes). Clean up with household ammonia and use a quality short pile roller, not a foam one

 

[Oonaghs]

Hi,

Thanks so much for the response - that's really helpful. I have had a look for the Zinnser BIN online - what I can find says it's primer-sealer-stainblocker - is that the one, ie can I use that for all coats (other than the diluted matt emulstion over the plaster) including as topcoat?

In terms of preparing the surface - there's one area where paint is sound other than area around size of 50p coin where paint coats have chipped out down to plaster - if you just have a small patch like this how to do you prepare to paint over - can I just try filler around the chipped area to smooth off and then paint over as alternative to removing all the paint down to the same level?

Thanks again

 

[opps]

You can use BIN as a finish coat but it is rather pricey.

TBH I have never used it on (significant areas of0 bare plaster as I would have (perhaps unfounded) reservations.

You might be lucky and find that removing any loose paint and filling everything else works (providing that the walls are sealed with the appropriate paint after sanding'/filling). If you do buy red devil, also buy silicone carbide sandpaper (180 grit).

An advantage of using watered down emulsion is that it is easier to sand back than BIN in the event that you miss anything. it is easy to miss spots of filler that only become obvious once you have applied paint.

BTW the crack running down the wall corner, this is dynamic and will require a filler with a higher degree of flexibility. Hopefully decorators caulk will suffice, if not you could use CT1 (has flexibility like silicone but can be overpainted).