Cracking, swollen render - please advise

Joined
5 Feb 2014
Messages
62
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
Please see the below job and photos posted to MyBuilder.
The exterior is the priority.
I would like some advice on my breaking exterior wall render, and especially a swollen part (final pic).
What is the cause, what is the fix, what category of tradesperson is appropriate and what should I expect to pay?
Thank-you very much.

--

We moved in to a Victorian terraced house in July 2013. The house had received an extensive renovation prior to sale. On our request, the seller also made remedial works to a defective damp-proof course at the rear kitchen.

Quickly, we found the interior kitchen wall plaster cracking at three walls, including two walls where the damp-proof course was replaced, one of which has also bulged so as to dislodge a skirting tile...

mC89wZkl.jpg

kr6OckWl.jpg

4f6U7Wsl.jpg


As of today, late January, outside inspection reveals damage to the renovators' new rear render at the back and site-return of the property. This cracking is occurring above two sets of double patio doors (one rear, one side) and above the side-return rectangular kitchen window...

g5XdyAfl.jpg

Cx27llnl.jpg

5q8df0Hl.jpg


Of particular concern, a higher part of the wall above the rear patio door has swelled and cracked...

fA1q2Yzl.jpg


I am concerned about water damage.

I am seeking competitive quotes with a view to carrying out this work in the next month or two:
1. Repair and re-render the exterior walls, bringing them to such standard to afford best protection against the elements and making good the work to be visually consistent with remaining render.
2. Replace cracking interior kitchen wall plaster, making good so as to be smooth and properly attaching the loose skirting tile.
3. Advise on any further required work to protect property against elements.

Please advise if plasterer is not the appropriate trade.

NB. Damp inspection in autumn showed no interior dampness signs by professional using a detector device.
 
Sponsored Links
Its hard to see from the pictures but it looks like the galvanising on the steel corner beads has broken down and expansion from rust has caused some cracks and most probably there is some swollen timber causing cracks due to what looks like quite severe water ingress.

My advice is to get several quotes from building contractors and ask for references relevant to the job.
 
In pic 1 a piece of moulding has been spliced in. This probably indicates that work has been done before on this area. Could be that the movement etc. is historic.

For wall movement to push out the "tile" skirting and base of the wall, then something serious seems to have happened.

You should post pics of the elevations involved and maybe scan a plan view showing where the movement is taking place?

Until the outside render and the interior plaster are removed back to brickwork, and pics posted, it will be difficult to comment further.

Do all windows and doors open freely?
Look above the doors and windows for level heads.
Any knock throughs in the last couple of years?
 
Just looking at the photos again, and it seems that something is wrong with the render mix - it seems almost fluffy, and very thick.
Could be just me or just the pictures.
 
Sponsored Links
Still looking at the pictures. I notice that although the wall is moving there dont appear to be any cracks in the floor tiles? Which would indicate that pressure is perhaps coming from higher up the wall.
 
In pic 1 a piece of moulding has been spliced in. This probably indicates that work has been done before on this area. Could be that the movement etc. is historic.

A photo I took in April 2013 during house viewing showed no cracking in the door frame; at least, from distance. I wonder whether this is really a spliced-in bit or whether it has simply cracked, actually..

H92Wovwl.jpg


C7NhbdOl.jpg


You should post pics of the elevations involved and maybe scan a plan view showing where the movement is taking place?

See below.

Do all windows and doors open freely? Look above the doors and windows for level heads.

Most internal doors in the house don't fit. I had put this down to them being reclaimed timber, with warps etc.
The two new patio doors in the kitchen open and close fine in their own frames.
There was and is no through door from kitchen to hallway, where you see the cracked door achitrave next to cracked plaster.

Any knock throughs in the last couple of years?

The house was an extensive refurb. In the most affected room (kitchen), a chimney breast and connected wall were knocked out, creating one large kitchen out of what was probably a middle room and pokey kitchen. The utility and WC behind the kitchen were likely a coal house or similar and were part of the refurb. The wall with the cracking and adjacent door architrave crack, however, were not near to the removed chimney.

Just looking at the photos again, and it seems that something is wrong with the render mix - it seems almost fluffy, and very thick.

Do you mean the exterior render or internal?

Still looking at the pictures. I notice that although the wall is moving there dont appear to be any cracks in the floor tiles? Which would indicate that pressure is perhaps coming from higher up the wall.

That's right; I see no cracking in floor tiles, which were also part of the refurb.
Based on forum responses, I'm beginning to wonder whether the internal plaster cracking isn't just a bad/hasty plaster job and, as you say, downward pressure, leading to cracking at the base.

--

To give you all a better understanding, I'd like to show you all a couple of room plans, and then survey excerpts and a log I have been keeping of the issue. First, you see the extended kitchen with utility and WC to the rear. I have marked some previous work and current condition...

IJT0bfal.png


Lo4WpGTl.png


2012/2013
House refurbished:

  • Inc DPC w/ Permagard Guarantee Bond.
  • Inc removal of chimney breast - Certificate of Completion, Building Regulations, local authority

May 2013:
Home Buyer Report:
(excerpts)

  • DPC, E4: “No apparent barrier from dampness passing from the ground…”
  • Damp, E4: “There is some internal dampness at the base of the walls caused by a lack of an adequate DPC. You should have (inspection and remedy).” Mortgage requirement per Lender’s Valuation Report: “Remedy dampness.”
  • Cracked exterior render, E4: “External rear faces of the wall are covered with a coating of cement and render. The render has some cracking but there are also some areas of hollowness where the render is not fully firmly fixed to the brickwork, and repair is needed..” Mortgage requirement per Lender’s Valuation Report: “Repair cracked/broken render.”
  • Wall movement, E4: “The walls have some sign of movement in the past but this is not structurally significant. A range of factors common to properties of this type and age can cause the outside walls of a dwelling to move by small amounts.” Comment per Lender’s Valuation Report: “The property has suffered some minor movement in the past but not recent, serious or likely progressive.”
  • Wall plasterboard defects?, E4: “The outside walls have, at least in part, a dry lined plasterboard internal surface and this may be hiding damage or defects.”

May 16, 2013:
Independent damp inspection:


  • Found: “Moisture readings taken using a Protimeter Surveymaster moisture meter indicated some dampness in the apparent newly plastered walls of the rear kitchen and adjacent utility/toilet at ground floor level. The wallplaster appeared to be cracking/shrinking in a few areas.”
  • “Exterior DPC injection holes may have been plastered over?”
  • WC: problems at all three walls.

May 31 & Jun, 2013:
Remedy: By another damp company:


  • Plaster hacked off: Kitchen rear wall, right wall, utility/WC
  • New chemical DPC injected, re-rendered walls (two coats sand & cement inc water proofer), then replastered walls.
  • New 30-year guarantee issued to developer.

Jul, 2013:
Moved in, observations since:


  • Interior observations as listed in original post, cracks developed soon.

Autumn 2013
Summer/autumn 2013:


  • New damp professional, using meter, found no indication of dampness.
  • He advised let settle, then patch using Polyfilla.
  • But cracks have worsened and hallway door architrave has cracked.

Winter 2014:
Exterior crack observations


  • Exterior render cracks and swollen individual part only recently became apparent following recent rains.

I hope that helps you kind souls help me. Thank-you.
 
The kitchen floor in new pic 1 seems to be dropping from Right to Left.

Its a splice to both frame and architrave, the old caulk line can be seen.
Pressure breaks splinter - snap a pencil.

External render.

When the plaster is off, the masonry movement will probably be exposed.
The plaster has to come off.

Was the chimney breast and dividing wall roughly in line with the dining table?
Was the knockthrough linteled over with steel or what?

The window and adjacent door could be freshly sited openings?

There are seven openings surrounding the kitchen footprint.

Is the kitchen two story? Solid walls and floor?

You need a chronology on the work, and any Building Regs, and the survey reports.

Dont get the 'orrors about any of this, its straightforward remedial work once you know whats happened or is maybe happening. Nothing will fall down or cost great expense.
 
It looks like the the problem is caused by a bad rendering job outside around door and window. The gaps you can see will be letting the water pour in and it seems like it has caused all the cracking and damage inside the building.l would get a good reputable structral engineer to have a look at it and give you some advice. I cant say any more unless l looked at it, but to me those problems should not occur, especially not after so little time after the re-furb!!!!!
 
An update for all…

We have had three builders (but no structural surveyors) out to assess and quote.

Each says the cause/s are:
- Shoddy/cowboy exterior rendering job - sprayed-on tyrolean poor, covering underlying wall cement cracks. Water penetrating wall.
- Poor or hasty internal plastering and painting during refurbishment and/or following remedial damp-proofing.
- Possibly some movement, but nothing significant.

They all suggest hacking off exterior render back to the brick, then replastering and respraying, to ensure no more water can penetrate from outside.
Then, after some weeks, to replaster internally-affected areas.

Cracks are worsening or new cracks appearing every day, it seems. It's quite upsetting. Since the original post, the wall is cracking in the WC, behind the kitchen radiator and even in the middle room at the wall that is not externally-facing but which is shared by wall hosting the musty, damp-affected kitchen cupboard…

On which point - having removed the kitchen unit kickboard to inspect the hidden side-return wall (internal) during builder assessments… it is an absolute mess. Masonary at the base of the wall with the floor has crumbled away due to damp. The builders probably did not damp-proof this wall, and/or there was a history of damp.

We are assessing builders' quotes:
- Builder 1: External Parex 2-coat coloured render, flat finish @ £2,925, rough finish @ £3,275
- Builder 2: External scratch coat, top coat, tyrolean finish with drips and beads; internal replastering @ £5,800 + VAT total
- Builder 3: External base coast, scratch coat; rough finish @ £2,250, smooth finish @ £2,550 (no VAT); all with lime additive, drips and beads.

We are also now considering reappointing a damp-and-timber contractor at same time to shore up the defences whilst the plaster is off.

Calling our insurer to check the position alarmed me since they warned me about the negative impact of an assessor finding evidence of subsidence (none of the builders believe there to be). We believe insurance on storm damage grounds to be a non-starter since, whilst the worst of the damage has been exacerbated by the recent rain, the cause is thought to be workmanship.

I am also not convinced about our current damp-proof course guarantees, which were made out to the seller.

Our original surveyor who carried out the Home Buyer's Report will not come back out and has advised appointing independent damp & timber specialist who is a member of the PCA.

If anyone here still thinks I should get a structural surveyor to investigate to possibility of movement/subsidence, do please say. Some hairline cracks are evidence up and over two parallel kitchen walls from where a wall was removed.

Thanks.
 
Hack off as much internal plaster as necessary to expose the walls in question. Do the same to the external render. Then call in a surveyor or a SE.

The damp proofing business seems like a red herring, but FWIW, guarantees are transferred to the new owner.

Questions and points in my Feb 007 9:13 post have not been dealt with by yourself.

I wish you luck with your investigations.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top