Cross Batton a Ceiling

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Hi,
My ceiling in my bedroom in sagging in the middle. It is a very old house with original plaster on i assume. I was told i could cross baton the ceiling across the beams, But what i was wondering is what size baton would i use, I.e 3x2?? and how do i secure them to the beans, do i drill straight through into the beans?
Sorry if this is a dumb question but i've not done anthing like this before. Any advice would be great.

Thaks Guys/Gals!!

Kris.
 
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if your ceiling is sagging it is more than likely that the plaster has parted company with the laths.
the only way to remedy this would be to replaster.
 
Hi, My ceiling in my bedroom in sagging in the middle. It is a very old house with original plaster on i assume.
What type of ceiling is it, conventional plaster board or lathe & plaster? You really need to establish this first & also why it’s sagging before you attempt to rectify it.

I was told i could cross baton the ceiling across the beams, But what i was wondering is what size baton would i use, I.e 3x2?? and how do i secure them to the beans, do i drill straight through into the beans?
Cross battening may not achieve anything if it’s the joists that are sagging; & even if they aren’t, it may not pull it up to achieve the desired effect. Cross battens must be secured into the joists above & not just screwed into the ceiling itself.
 
Thanks for the replys. Its lathe & plaster not plaster board. have had no water damage so i just assumed it was through the actual age of the house.

Thanks
 
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Another thing that often happens is that the lime mortar ceiling cracks and falls to bits when you tension the new battens up. It's a bit of a bodge really and won't fool anyone when you sell the place.
 
I'm in no rush to sell, i just want the ceiling to be straight so i can plaster board over it.
 
Do it properly and take it down. You'll regret it one day if you don't.
 
Yeh i know what your saying and i suppose thats the best way, but i have just had the front re-roofed and just the thought of the mess and dust every where!! thats why iam trying to explore any other alternative.
i appreciate the comments.

Thanks
 
Yeh i know what your saying and i suppose thats the best way, but i have just had the front re-roofed and just the thought of the mess and dust every where!! thats why iam trying to explore any other alternative.
i appreciate the comments.

Thanks

Put false ceiling directly underneath the old using 3x2. You will only lose a couple of inches; it will only cost about £20 more; you wont have to drop the original; it will be ultra flat and the insulation property of two is better than one. It's easy, honest.

Nick
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yes thats what i was hoping to do but wasn't quite sure on how to do it. Would appreciate a idiots guide if you have the time.

Thanks.
 
yes thats what i was hoping to do but wasn't quite sure on how to do it. Would appreciate a idiots guide if you have the time.

Thanks.

You dont even need a drill for this method, just listen ... find the lowest perimeter point on your ceiling. The wall it adjoins, will be your starting point. measure the length of that wall + 8mm and cut the 3x2 (actually lock your tape measure to length then add 8mm). you will have to hammer the wood into position and level it but it will hold itself up. measure the next piece from the first to other and add 8mm again. Repeat this til you have your perimeter. Fix the corners together with nails then check they are all still level. Nail the wood around the perimeter to the wall every couple of feet. Dont hit them in too hard they are only acting teeth, not fixings. Place you infill length in one at a time, fixing with nail, all 8mm over measured. The overall force of all those 8mm will hold a car up. Forgot to mention you need to leave room above this ceiling to lie a length of 3x2 led across the top; perpendicular to the rest and fixed to each this will parallel the joists, and give rigidity and reduce bounce-back while nailing. I have doe this hundreds of times and had no come-backs.

Hope that is easy to understand.

Nick
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Why would a pebble-dasher do that hundreds of times? Why are ceiling all falling where you live? And what is there in your method to hold up the original ceiling to stop it falling and bowing your new one? The whole thing sounds Heath Robinson to me.


(EDIT)

If you placed your new battens crosswise to the original ceiling joists you could use some 'builders band' from the new battens up to the old joists through slots in the ceiling and that would give stability and strength to the new structure. Not a bad idea after all if you do that.
 
The method is sound. Hundreds, is a slight, if not massive exaggerations. I have done this on about 50 ceilings over my 20yrs. We used to renovate terraces, one after another, and this was quick, cheap and good - no sagging. :evil:

Nick
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Hi.
Just wanted to give you a little more food for thought.
Another alternative to taking the whole thing down & starting again is to have an MF (metal-furring) ceiling installed.
This is a form of suspended ceiling that would hang directly below your existing one, losing you very little headroom.
It consists of thin, press-moulded metal "joists" braced with metal purlins (above) slotted into a metal channeling fixed direct to the wall.
The whole structure is then supported by brackets from your existing timber joists, & the plasterboard is then screwed direct to the metal-furring.
The framework is surprisingly strong (I've tried swinging on them!! They don't budge......& I'm 17 stone!!).
However, this is probably a solution for which you would need a specialist, & therefore to pay for their expertise, which may not be favourite.
Also I wholeheartedly agree with the other posts, in that you really, REALLY need to investigate the cause of your original ceiling sagging!!!
Good luck.
 
Please listen to the advice I have given. I know what I am talking about, honest

Nick
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