cutting kitchen worktop for not quite 90 degrees

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is it possible to use a worktop jig to cut a mason's mitre joint between two worktops at say 95 degrees?

i was envisaging that the female cut would be done as normal and the male cut done with the jig set at the appropriate angle - maybe working off a pencil line scribed off the female piece?

or will the cuts not quite match?

also - why do the instructions for some jigs sometimes specify the joint of either the male or female joint to be cut laminate side down (with the jig upside down also). i would of thought that the router would cut the same either way round? i'm working in solid wood so don't know if this affects me anyway?

roger
 
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squo - yes you can - we often do it - but don't use a pencil ('cos the line could be difficult to see). Consider using a scriber (a scratched line shows-up well), infact Trend do a worktop scriber for about £14 which automatically give the correct off-set. If you scribe (using an engineer's scriber or similar) directly off the female you need to consider the off-set for the cutter line (we do a knats over 8mm for 30mm guide bush but check your own setting for this).

Remember, if the jig's at a slight angle you'll not be able to use all 3 location bushes and will have to take extra special care for firm clamping to prevent slip.

The cuts have to match 'cos they're being done in a jig.
 
the reason that you cut upside down with laminates is to make sure that the router cutter is cutting into the postform laminate and not out from inside it to prevent breakout and chipping of the laminate.
If you solid wood worktop is square edged then it is more usuall to just form a but joint rather than a masons mitre.
 
yes the mason mitre helps join moulded sheets , if its square edges then you can scribe one piece to the other and just use the bolting section of the jig for underneath :?:
 
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thanks for all your help. i have sent off for one of the trend scribers.
the worktops have a slightly rounded edge so i'll try a butt joint and see how it looks.
 
If you have a profiled edge then you really have no choice but to masons mitre.
Glue the joints with silicone as with wood you will get some movement, fit some dry biscuits(don't glue) and leave a small expansion gap at the back.
 

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