Lamin dear boy, please don't call me a moron ... personal abuse isn't welcome (or tolerated) here; I await your apology. By all means state, that in your opinion, my advice is whatever you believe it to be but I'd be grateful if you didn't slag-me-off. Bun fights are fine, disagreements healthy, different opinions valued, but no nastiness!
Whilst I share your view that it's always best to use the 'correct' tool for the job, sometimes improvisation is called for; infact, this forum is awash with this type of advice. The Arbortech blade isn't a bodge, it's designed for the purpose. Your view that there should be concern about the results of hitting brick or concrete, or even cable trunking can also be directed at those using a powerdrill to create holes for rawlplugs ... I bet there are countless thousands of folks over the years who've broken wrists (or jaws) when the hammer drill has 'kicked' when going into masonry. What about all those who've had a nasty shock when hitting a buried lekky cable when putting a picture up? Yep, lots of DIY carries some risk, we should anticipate that those undertaking it will take some care and use takle 'fit for purpose'.
30 years ago I adapted a hand-held circular saw to trim the bottoms of doors in-situ (we were knocking out flat conversions) - the modifications included moveable blade guard taken off, riving knife taken off, part of the base cut away to allow cutting ¼" off the floor. A firm, confident grip was required when using the beast but it did a great job ... yes, a blo*dy dangerous contraption but in those day the 'elf & safety was just coming-in. I wouldn't dream of using (or suggesting to others) something like this now 'cos I can afford the pukka tackle (DeWalt plunge saw) but others here maybe can't afford the 'correct' tools. I still have that old monster saw in a bag somewhere.