cutting stainless steel kitchen splashback

Perhaps I am missing something but when I see professional kitchen fitters make do with something just 10-20 mm too short they use some kind of cover strip to make up the difference.

The solution here shows that if you have the time and live in the right area then local firms will often make up something to suit at a much lower cost. Thats why I love Coventry which still has some small workshops left.

Its sad though that they are all staffed by over-50s made redundant from the motor trade and their skills are not being passed on to the young people as the apprenticeship schemes have all stopped.

Tony.
 
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STAINLESS STEEL SPLASHBACKS - After all your help regarding cutting stainless steel for splashbacks I have another question please.

Does anybody know the best type of adhesive to use to fix the splashbacks onto plasterboard? I am assuming ordinary tiling adhesive will do the job but don't know if stainless steel may need something more robust. The splashbacks will be held in place slightly with socket cover plates but even I know that that will not be enough over a large area, if we happen to use the incorrect adhesive.

Agile - I understand your sentiments - I hate bodgers. We have even obtained a small sample of stainless steel to practise cutting so that we know what to expect when cutting out for the sockets. Don't get me started on the state of this country as regards losing our skilled people. I think I am now regarded as a 'Grumpy old Woman' now and I'm thinking of entering it as an Olympic event!!

Masona - Hope you had a good Christmas and New Year.
 
rustynails said:
Masona - Hope you had a good Christmas and New Year.
Just glad it's over ;)

I've used Gripfill for my stainless steel and not has any problem, the green tube

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Hi,

I had, or have, a s/s splashback which is the usual thin sheet with 10mm folded edges and a loose mdf board which fits inside. I wanted to eliminate the s/s flexing which was apparent when I offered it up to the wall. (It also had fixing flanges on two opposing sides.) I used a No More Nails type of adhesive to stick the mdf to the s/s. I then stuck the splashback to the wall.

However there are small dimples in the s/s where the adhesive was used. One gets used to them and they are not too visible, but they are there. I didn't use pressure to hold the splashback back to the wall, so I don't know either why they appeared or how to avoid causing them, apart from just using the flanges and letting the s/s flap.

Rgds.
 
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Kes,

Read your message regarding your splashback. Correct me if I have got it wrong, but I thought the splashbacks that had mdf on the back and the edges were rounded off did not require being stuck to each other first and you just stuck the whole lot just once with adhesive onto the wall without having to stick the s/s firstly onto the mdf? I now can understand the dimpleing effect you will have. Sounds to me like the s/s wasn't fitted snugly to the mdf in the first place. No doubt you will be the only one to notice it. We looked at that type of splashback which you could buy from B&Q but if you read my earlier messages you will see the problems we had. If you can imagine the area we are covering is in the shape of an upside-down T with the sides being much longer on each side as the whole length of the wall either side of the cookerwill be in s/s and the area above the hob going towards the ceiling will also be in s/s. I have thought that when it comes to smoothing the s/s onto the wall, if I use an unused paint roller and gently run it along it will emilinate any finger dents. Have to get that passed husband first though. He doesn't agree with me on that. :D
 
Hi.

I have a similar issue with cutting a brushed steel splash back. Same composition with the thin layer of steel and backing. The difference is that I do not have a straight cut to make but need to cut and angled piece out of the tip edge to fit around the housing for the extractor and lights below the hood. This has been a bit if a saga since I took it to a local fabricators months ago and despite calling them and getting "Oh we'll do it today and call you back" they have not done it so I am going to collect it back. So I might try it myself. Ideally I'd like to preserve the lip as it folds over the backing board for a neat finish.

Gary
 

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