the box is secured well mate. Im just deseperate to learn the best method?
Damaged plaster around switch
- Thread starter andy2k7
- Start date
Sponsored Links
no im looking for advice please......
Youve already been given enough, how much more do you want; be specific!
Sponsored Links
whats the difference using bonding and skim and using polyfiller?
This is a wind up; goodbye
im being serious
- Joined
- 11 Jan 2004
- Messages
- 42,880
- Reaction score
- 2,669
- Country
Bonding & skim are a "professional" plaster - it's what plasterers themselves use.
Polyfilla is more of a crack filler- you have to apply it in thin layers so it can dry, whereas the bonding you can apply in one go, wait for it to dry then put finish on top.
Polyfilla is more of a crack filler- you have to apply it in thin layers so it can dry, whereas the bonding you can apply in one go, wait for it to dry then put finish on top.
last question. Do i have to leave the 1mm gap, ive saw plasters just chuck it on?
Do i have to rub it down after the first and last coat?
Do i have to rub it down after the first and last coat?
if using polyfilla, use the deep hole variety or use the two plaster types and rub down afterwards.
Nick
Nick
breack away old stuff mix a little plaster from small bag fill hole when it dries (it will crack) mix a little more and go over again with trowel - been a plasterer for 2o years and cant believe people would mess on with bonding/browning for such a small patch
To avoid this problem again - some advice........
DON'T USE A PNEUMATIC DRILL TO CHASE OUT WALLS!!!
DON'T USE A PNEUMATIC DRILL TO CHASE OUT WALLS!!!
- Joined
- 11 Jan 2004
- Messages
- 42,880
- Reaction score
- 2,669
- Country
If the bonding & skim are applied correctly and floated off, there will be no need for rubbing down.
Isolate and remove the switch.
Knock out any loose plaster.
Due to its depth, you need to fill the holes with undercoat plaster otherwise known as browning. This is very light and sticks to the wall, and can be quite thick. Because it is light, it doesn't pull itself out of shape.
Whap it in and smooth it down to just below the level of the wall. It will dry in a couple of hours.
Finish off with some plaster for a nice smooth finish.
It should be ready for refitting the switch the day after.
If you use just plaster or polyfilla, you will spend ages putting thin layers on then waiting for them to dry.
Knock out any loose plaster.
Due to its depth, you need to fill the holes with undercoat plaster otherwise known as browning. This is very light and sticks to the wall, and can be quite thick. Because it is light, it doesn't pull itself out of shape.
Whap it in and smooth it down to just below the level of the wall. It will dry in a couple of hours.
Finish off with some plaster for a nice smooth finish.
It should be ready for refitting the switch the day after.
If you use just plaster or polyfilla, you will spend ages putting thin layers on then waiting for them to dry.
What kind of plaster in a small bag are we talking about? Can't believe that a plasterer of 20 years would not use Bonding/Browning undercoat plaster to fill up a plaster patch onto brick/blocks regardless of size. I would use nothing else. It is so much easier,and made for the job. Wet 'n' PVA the patch before it's plastered and it wont even crack once,let alone have to go over it twice, just apply the finish when it's set. The patching here, to be honest should have been done first, not after the electrics were fitted. easier job, less work involved.
Roughcaster.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
