If you do decide to remove the plaster then it would be an idea to use insulated plaster board since it is a solid wall, Which has vapour control layer built into it.
Damp around window
- Thread starter Hugh Jaleak
- Start date
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Flyboytim,
"the hard standing" - its not a "hard standing" its the pavement, the public footpath.
"the hard standing ... has been built up" etc. We know, its already been mentioned more than once.
"the airbricks" "These bricks are to provide through ventilation" Anyone else feeling comatose.
"The original DPC" ... has there been a reference to another, a later DPC?
"The original DPC is likely to be in the mortar course between the top of the airbrick and the course above." No its not. No it isn't. Again, the position of the DPC has been described more than once.
Its below the air brick, and the joist tails - where it should be. Anyone with two cents of practical experience would know that.
"The ground level ... reduced" etc. You are talking about the public pavement. Interfere with it and you risk a hefty fine. Typically, most council's only allow authorised companies to dig up the pavement.
"the hard standing" - its not a "hard standing" its the pavement, the public footpath.
"the hard standing ... has been built up" etc. We know, its already been mentioned more than once.
"the airbricks" "These bricks are to provide through ventilation" Anyone else feeling comatose.
"The original DPC" ... has there been a reference to another, a later DPC?
"The original DPC is likely to be in the mortar course between the top of the airbrick and the course above." No its not. No it isn't. Again, the position of the DPC has been described more than once.
Its below the air brick, and the joist tails - where it should be. Anyone with two cents of practical experience would know that.
"The ground level ... reduced" etc. You are talking about the public pavement. Interfere with it and you risk a hefty fine. Typically, most council's only allow authorised companies to dig up the pavement.
We have a whole front wall of 'all snapped headers' in my parents house.
- Half of which is original solid 9inch wall, using smart snapped bricks at the front, and local soft bricks (stretcher bond) , now drylined and internally insulated.
- The other half is and extension which they built to match (including matching the courses and using tumbled bricks) with a 3inch cavity in the middle.
So yes, you can have headers even in the late 80s!
Daniel
Pavement and roadway height has been raised over the years as road and pavement have been resurfaced and original iron kerbs replaced with concrete. Council have already had to relay a drain from the rainwater downpipe under the pavement as they buried it when resurfacing last...
I cannot see condensation being too much of an issue, simply as the problem only affects a certain area of that wall. There is no problem higher up the wall, or towards the corners of the room on that wall. the room above does not have a damp issue, nor do the rear walls of the building.
Heating is Gas radiator type, usually to around 19 ° C during colder months, with an open fire used as additional heating. Condensation on the window has never been an issue. Damp issue is increased following heavy rainfall, hence my thinking it is penetrating damp.
I cannot see condensation being too much of an issue, simply as the problem only affects a certain area of that wall. There is no problem higher up the wall, or towards the corners of the room on that wall. the room above does not have a damp issue, nor do the rear walls of the building.
Heating is Gas radiator type, usually to around 19 ° C during colder months, with an open fire used as additional heating. Condensation on the window has never been an issue. Damp issue is increased following heavy rainfall, hence my thinking it is penetrating damp.
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Sorry, I'm no expert - just a DYIYer - but if you think it could be penetrating damp - is it not worth using a dehumidifier to dry out the walls.
Once dried - apply the Thompson Water seal stuff on the outside bricks.
We've currently got a problem with water/damp coming through the walls but only after this horrid torrential rain that didn't stop for six weeks and was blown into the walls. Our bricks are 1935 and yellow stock.
I'm hoping the above which I have suggested works because it's what I'm doing at the moment.
Once dried - apply the Thompson Water seal stuff on the outside bricks.
We've currently got a problem with water/damp coming through the walls but only after this horrid torrential rain that didn't stop for six weeks and was blown into the walls. Our bricks are 1935 and yellow stock.
I'm hoping the above which I have suggested works because it's what I'm doing at the moment.
I am going to try another coat (or 6) of Water Seal, mainly as financial constraints do not permit much more at this precise moment in time. It was the suggested solution by the Building Inspector when he came out about an unrelated matter, so I will trust his judgement.
The houses in my road were build with 9" solid walls, Flemish bond, in the mid 1950s.
And of course, if you have uninsulated cavity walls, which start out performing better than solid ones, you can get grants towards the cost of making them work even better. Try getting a grant towards the cost of insulating solid walls to improve their thermal performance
I too can get a Government grant to make my walls work better. The clever man on the end of the phone told me earlier today. Not only is his company so special, the Telephone Preference Service rules don't apply to them, they can also fit cavity wall insulation in my house! (Oh, and apparently I'm entitled to a Government grant for a new boiler as well! )
Going to be interesting when their surveyor comes round in the next few days......
)Going to be interesting when their surveyor comes round in the next few days......
Keep him there for as long as possible, so as to waste the maximum of his time.
I hope I am here when he turns up, will let you know whats said.....
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