Damp Issues - What's the cause?


"have a look at this photo I took it a while back"
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I'll try and explain Ted.

The big blue box is a quote box. You can enter one by pressing the quote button.

The source of the quote is in the title. I have highlighted it for you ted

Does that help?

And do you agree with the quote Bobasd? Maybe ask ree or vinn, maybe they can explain if the picture is not clear?
I cited the source of the pic in the quote title.

I did not claim to take it.

Odd resposnse there ted/ree/vin/bobasd.
He edited his response out last night - one of his tricks ,you need to quote him every time or he will slither out. Good to see you list his previous names. ;)
He edited his response out last night - one of his tricks ,you need to quote him every time or he will slither out.

That's ok.
Pity he's not grown up enough to admit his error.

Probably ashamed of his behaviour. I mean, being upset I made a valid point countering his on a public forum, accusations of plagiarism and general "throw my toys out the pram" mentatility is something I expect from a child.

It's ok Ted - I forgive you. Everyone makes mistakes.

Come back and join the thread!

I still want to hear what you think about rising damp after seeing the heritage house quote. If it'll make you feel better, why not create another new account and leave your shame behind? We'll all know its you anyway. Its nearly that time isnt it.
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Good one jacko ! he's been at it for 5 years now, starting as ree. The best one is his insistence that mastic asphalt flooring is tarmac. Thing is, a lot of regulars know him but a newby DIY'er doesn't. Call him out at every opportunity;)
So wrong and so sad to quote a salesman called heritage house.
He defies and doesn't understand gravity either.
He defies and doesn't understand gravity either
Maybe this will be a learning opportunity for me!

Can you explain, in simple terms, why the bricks are dry? Knowledge is important. Please educate me
What do people think about removing external rendered plinths.

I'm not sure that's a workable option as removing it almost certainly will wreck the brickwork, or spoil the face as a minimum.

I realise if it bridges the DPC that's not good.
After successfully doing it as a "workable option" many times in many jobs to many specifications - it is not a "certainly" to "wreck the brickwork" only someone lacking experience & ability would say that its a certainty.
Not sure this is the best way, but I once hacked off a bridging plinth on a damp wall, tacked a wooden batten to cover the DPC, re-rendered above and below the batten (discontinuity of plinth meant no bridging), subsequently sealed the brickwork in the groove with Synthaprufe, blinded it, and filled in with mortar. My textbook recommended sharp sand in the render mix as the pore size is larger than building sand so it is less prone to capillarity. Today I might cut the groove with a small grinder instead of hacking off all the plinth.

Further work found builders rubble filling the cavity up to the floorboards which I cleaned out, it must have been a contributing cause to bridging in the damp wall.

I now think I might have got good results by excavating a pebble trench in front of the wall to reduce water absorption and allow some evaporation. My neighbour has done that with good results. (he has solid stone walls)

In my current house the ground is chalky and you can see the limits of groundwater penetration by a crust of minerals on the bricks. It only rises one brick above the paving and does not even reach the DPC.
I hadn't realised it was Bobasd.....I remember his posts, he seems to have anger issues
ree, Vinn ted. all raving until he shuts down and starts another name . Anger issues - you should have seen his deleted ( by mods ) stuff.
Thanks for the advice guys.. looks like there was a bit of controversy along the way too :D

Don't spend money on flashings and sealants on that roof - waste of money. it needs to be remade. Obviously what's happened is heavy concrete tiles have been put on a roof that was originally slated and it has sagged. The structure is nowhere near strong enough and has been bodge braced. Start saving to have it taken off and rebuilt.

I don't know if that purlin is original but it is far too small for what is there now.
I really can't afford a reroof at the moment

My aim is to get the roof water tite to prevent the damp/water penetration in the bedroom party wall

I know that the ideal solution is for the roof to be remade.. but wouldn't pointing loft area (above the party wall) and installing lead flashing solve the damp?

Re: The bowing in the ceiling (due to the weight of the roof tiles) - can acrows be used then remedial work be done to add extra support

In about 2-3 years, I plan to undertake a loft conversion, so i'd nip any issues in the bud then
That's a DIY option.

Thompson is not a professional damp remedy.
Professional brick sealants contain silane / siloxane not silicone.

I would be concerned you have had a damp guy around that is just touting for work and not a pro.

What materials is he proposing to use to tank the wall?

Your best options are a cavity drain system like Oldroyd or a breathable system like stormdry masonry protection cream.

Have a look at safeguard Europe for gear that pros use.

he never specified the materials regarding tanking/membrane

to be frank, he lost me as a potential client, when he proposed the exclusive use of sand and cement mortar

I was the one who had to suggest the use of lime mortar as a more appropriate material before he conceded

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