Decking advice please
- Thread starter Steveb21
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6 x 120 or 150mm will be plenty strong enough, but if you are worried, just use 1 or 2 more. The benefit of screws, is they clamp the wood up tight reducing water ingress, increasing rigidity and can be undone more easily
So had a busy few days.
Trimmed off posts
Bolted in beams using M12's
Laid down the weed membrane
Attached frame
Attached joists (these are not fixed in yet)
Loosely laid down the deck (as deck has been pilled up sitting on my drive for nearly 4 weeks i wanted to get this done just incase any boards had started to warp).
Wont be able to do any further work until later this week so next plan is to fix joists.
Questions:
On a few spots my joists do not touch the beam - can i just insert a galvanized metal plate or something to fill the gap?
At 750mm joist spacing, will i require noggin?
Pictures:
Trimmed off posts
Bolted in beams using M12's
Laid down the weed membrane
Attached frame
Attached joists (these are not fixed in yet)
Loosely laid down the deck (as deck has been pilled up sitting on my drive for nearly 4 weeks i wanted to get this done just incase any boards had started to warp).
Wont be able to do any further work until later this week so next plan is to fix joists.
Questions:
On a few spots my joists do not touch the beam - can i just insert a galvanized metal plate or something to fill the gap?
At 750mm joist spacing, will i require noggin?
Pictures:
I have been away for a few days and noticed that the deck boards have started to warp! grrrr
My plan was to start with the posts this weekend and then screw down the boards.
How are these boards supposed to be kept while in storage? If anything the warp will only get worse untill i get to screw them down.
My plan was to start with the posts this weekend and then screw down the boards.
How are these boards supposed to be kept while in storage? If anything the warp will only get worse untill i get to screw them down.
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Timber left in full sunlight will warp, the unseasoned will warp even worse.
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screws are the answer to your recent questions.
screws will pull the beams to the joist where they don't touch and screws will pull the warp out of your wood to a degree.
Generally you stack them and cover with a tarp, when you buy in advance of use.
screws will pull the beams to the joist where they don't touch and screws will pull the warp out of your wood to a degree.
Generally you stack them and cover with a tarp, when you buy in advance of use.
Osmo WR base coat should help a bit with warp and splits as the boards dry out
From OSMO's site:
"Ideal as extra protection for softwood species for the exterior. A clear wood impregnation which serves as a preventive protection against blue stain, rot and insect attack. Penetrates deeply into the wood - prevents swelling and shrinkage and is extremely water repellent with a very low odour during application and is completely odourless when dry."
From OSMO's site:
"Ideal as extra protection for softwood species for the exterior. A clear wood impregnation which serves as a preventive protection against blue stain, rot and insect attack. Penetrates deeply into the wood - prevents swelling and shrinkage and is extremely water repellent with a very low odour during application and is completely odourless when dry."
No - not in the case of the WR coat (it's like a pre-treatment to apply before you oil etc to help prevent warping splitting etc and protect from insect/mould attack) - get a cheapy moisture meter off ebay or amazon (I found one for about £5 iirc e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Moisture-M...id=1500640258&sr=8-46&keywords=moisture+meter) - the boards need to be at or below 17% moisture... they probably already will be - slap it on all over and over the frame as well.
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no. but if they are sappy it might come through.
Looks good all you need to do now is build a diving board 
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