Decking oil - Rubbish?

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I built a new deck last summer which was oiled and it looked amazing.

Over the winter it went mouldy and looked awful, despite cleaning.

I had to get it professionally cleaned by a pressure washing company, and it now looks a lot better but it's still black/grey in places and oil is left in some spots.

Based on advice here I thought oil would be the best option but it didn't help at all, the spare pieces laying around the garden that had no treatment look fine.

Don't know what to do this year. Any suggestions?
 
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the wood can get damp under the oil and get fungal staining.

I treat mine with wood presever before oiling.

it is possible to abrade or bleach the black stains.
 
John - so you would suggest using a preservative first, otherwise even with regular oiling/cleaning it will soon look sorry?

I am just part way through my decking project and bought some Cuprinol decking oil after being advised that this was a better bet than a stain (flaking).

I did wonder though why you wouldn't use a wood preservative like you would on a fence (I used Cuprinol Shed & Fence protector on my fence and it seems to have lasted well, is solvent based, and where I've used it on cut ends whilst building the deck framework you can see it repelling water).

I just assumed that maybe it wouldn't be up to the traffic wear that decking would see and so maybe decking oils were better suited.

If a preservative will be better I think I'd rather just use that instead (the missus wanted it the same colour as the fence anyway!!).

Sorry to butt in, but it's on topic :)
 
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the solvent-based Cuprinol preservatives soak in and are very effective for rot and insects, but they do not give a water-repellend decorative coating (although I have used the brown one)

I used to use a fence stain on top, that leaves a coloured waxy film to repel rain, but more recently I have been using linseed oil. I read that water vapor can pass through it.

I looked at Teak Oil and Dainish Oil but they appear to be linseed oil mixed with white spirit to make them soak in better and dry off quicker, so I have tried mixing the first coat with white spirit to make it soak in.

Decking oils seem to be just various vegetable oils mixed with various thinners. Some of them are more expensive and might be better, I don't know.

I have heard that Tung oil gives very good protection.
 
it is possible to abrade or bleach the black stains.
When it's sunny my deck looks pretty good, when it rain all of the black bits show up.

I tried using bleach but that didn't shift it.

What would you suggest to get rid of the staining?
 
souns to me like it is not waterproof and the rain is wetting it. Usually ordinary bleach or sandpaper will remove the black spots, I think I have heard that oxalic acid can be used but you would have to ask in the woodworking section.

I suppose you could use a dark-coloured coating and the black spots will not look so prominent. Black spots are a common problem on outdoor woodwork where water has got in.
 
the solvent-based Cuprinol preservatives soak in and are very effective for rot and insects, but they do not give a water-repellend decorative coating (although I have used the brown one)
.

The Cuprinol Shed & Fence treatment is solvent based, and it definitely repelled water after a couple of days, I could see the rain beading where I'd applied it.

Maybe not after it's fully dried out though?
 
Hi there..

try looking onto LIBERON decking oil.. or any of the other products that they do.
It is simply great stuff, and we have had our fencing all done in it and it still looks brand new.
a little more costly for a tin, but long term it works out far better as you will never need to do it again for years to come.
 
Hi Jay,

just putting some decking down myself - what colour liberon decking oil did you use, as the oak looks very dark and the teak a bit orange - got a photo?
 
Hi there..

try looking onto LIBERON decking oil.. or any of the other products that they do.
It is simply great stuff, and we have had our fencing all done in it and it still looks brand new.
a little more costly for a tin, but long term it works out far better as you will never need to do it again for years to come.
Liberon decking oil is what I bought after the recommendations on here, 3 tins of it, cost me a fortune.

Not impressed with the results at all, didn't last long enough.

Even oil on Ronseal's website is listed as 'medium' protection. I've gone and bought their advanced decking stain which has covered the dark bits pretty well and looks brilliant.

This is listed as a 'very high' protection so I hope it works for longer.

I don't mind doing it every year but the oil started letting water though in less than 6 months.
 
Hi there.
i used the clear deck oil, but i also used a chesnut stain for the darker wood, and all of it looks like new still.

but i can not speak for others on here who say it is not that good. it is only my own opinion on what i have used and will use again if i need too on other fencing
 
I do think a dark wood dye like Colron helps the appearance and also hides any patchiness or water-staing.
 
hi JohnD

yes I think so too. But I also think it helps having top grade/quailty wood as in the fence panels or decking and even the posts.

i think this is one most important thing we all overlook and then we become unhappy at the result of the stain or the paint. as cheaper wood is not treated as well.. and I feel this helps the long lasting finish fail because a good quality treated timber will last.. along with a good quality treatment = LIEBERON deck oils.. I should be a sales rep for the stuff lol.

re cuprinol.. mmm i think it is a waste of money. ( for any long term finish ) but if one is happy to paint every year or so then thats fine.. but it comes back to original cost and then overall total cost and also if it is a quick job and a quick sell of the property.
 
saying that. i used wickes el cheapo chestnut wood stain.. and then Liberon deck oil, 2 coats and the results were stunning!

and still are 2 years later
 

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