Decking screws - very basic question

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Firstly, apologies if you've already read this in General DIY, realised it was more appropriate here after that post.

Numpty question I'm afraid; Do decking screws need pilot holes drilled or are they designed to bite into the wood without and without splitting it ?
 
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Lots of screws will go into softwood without drilling, but decking screws are countersunk.

I always prefer to drill a pilot in everything but rough carpentry, it reduces effort to drive the screw, avoids damaging the screwhead, puts it in straight, doesn't crack the wood...

I did once meet an old stage hand who was convinced that the correct way to drive a screw was with a hamer, and the slot was only there to help you take it out (!)
 
Thanks JohnD.

Anyone know specifically if they are designed not to need pilot holes ?
 
depends on the quality of the screw but most are designed to be driven in without a pilot hole.(assuming your driving them into softwood decking) Dont use them within 25 mm of the end of the planks though. Personally i dont use them on decking jobs i do
 
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i shot fire them using annular nails with a paslode nail gun.
 
There's a screw brand called ulti-mate they've got a cutting point on them for screwing without a pilot.
when I lay decking I never drill a pilot hole. pilot holes cut the grain allowing water into the end grain, where as drilling straight in pushes the grain apart, I don't know if this makes any difference to the life of the decking tho.
 
First off, if you nail 'em you'll never be able to lift them without wrecking the board - no good if some numpty drops a ring between the boards or if you leave a tool underneath the deck :oops:

Deck screws sold as such will not need pilot holes - just be sure not to let them drive right into the wood or again, removal will pull lumps out when you unscrew.
 
its a personal choice nails or screws, and i dont leave tools under decks i always check first. I always lay a membrane under the boards so anything dropped can be retrieved easily
 
Thermo said:
i shot fire them using annular nails with a paslode nail gun.
Thermo at work. :D
cagle_minigun_lg.jpg
 
There are some pro's and cons to both ...

Nails
Pros
Quicker to lay the boards than screws (assuming you use a nail gun). ;)
Quite long lasting nowadays if you fit galvanised.
New ring annular nails grip well when fitted.
Tend to be better hidden in the board if fitted correctly.
Cons
Almost impossible to get a board up without trashing it.
Boards will loosen over time as a natural consequence of the expansion/contraction of the boards.

Screws
Pros
If boards loosen over time they can be tightened.
Boards can be lifted and re-fitted without damage.
Screws are generally considered more secure fixtures.
Similarly long lasting if you use proper treated decking screws (Spax say) and far superior to galvanised nails if you use stainless steel.
Cons
More time consuming than nails to lay boards.
More visible than nails but stainless steel screw heads actually look good IMO ... Keep the screw lines straight and you'll get the same neat effect as a ship's deck.
It's easy to shear screws if not careful (particularly if you hit a knot in the joist).


Most pro-fitted decks you'll see in this country nowadays will be nailed wheras most DIY decks will be screwed ... This simply reflects the fact that the pro has the necessary (and expensive) tools such as the Paslode gun to drive these large annular ring nails and fitting time is an important consideration whereas most DIY'ers have power screwdrivers and have all the time in the world :)

I always personally use stainless steel screws to fit deck boards though I always use power driven annular ring nails to build the frame (toenailing joist to beams for instance where 3" nails are required). One interesting point which often surprises people is that it is no more expensive to fit stainless steel screws bought in bulk (at least 1000 at a time) online than it would be to fit something like SPAX deck screws bought from the sheds. This obviously only helps DIY'ers building medium to large sized decks but is worth considering ... I would never fit the cheap deck screws you see at the likes of B&Q in the big plastic bags ... Something like 50000 screws for £2.50. They shear more often than they don't and corrode like a 1970's Skoda :LOL: It is really a matter of you get what you pay for here.

Bottom line though is that Thermo is absolutely right ... It's a matter of personal preference and circumstances and both fixing methods should survive for the useful life of the wood.

Hope this has been helpful.
 
I know this is nothing like some people on here but have layed 3 decks myself and always used RAPIERSTAR they cost about £5 for 200 and they are excellent screws.
 
I've used Rapierstar also but prefer the durability (and appearance) of stainless steel.

The square bugle head on the SS is also more durable, particularly if you need to lift boards a couple of years down the line.

For small and/or lower cost projects I have no problem with either Rapierstar or their equivalent from SPAX but would use SS on larger more expensive projects (or anywhere coastal where corrosion is a big issue).

Take a tip from ship decks where durability in probably the harshest environment for metal is key ... They always use high grade stainless steel ... Not so long ago they were mega £'s and out of reach of most DIY'ers budgets but costs are falling all the time.

To the Diy'er 1000 Rapierstar = £47, 1000 SS = £67

If anyone is interested in SS I get them here ...

http://deckingscrews.easywebstore.co.uk/contentcollectionpage.aspx?Type=2&Category=8606
 

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