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Defrost cycle - over 10 Celcius?

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My fridge has just reached 10 Celcius as part of its defrost cycle - it's occasionally gone through phases before where it's sometimes reached 8 or 9 but 10 is a new record and it's not THAT warm in my kitchen (24 C which it's often reached of late). As I type this I hear the compressor has just started up and it's starting to very slowly cool again.

However, even bearing in mind the warm weather, should it really go as high as 10 C, even if it's only for half an hour or so?

The fridge is a Bosch KIR21VS30G

Is there anything that I could (or should) check or adjust ?
 
My fridge has just reached 10 Celcius as part of its defrost cycle - it's occasionally gone through phases before where it's sometimes reached 8 or 9 but 10 is a new record and it's not THAT warm in my kitchen (24 C which it's often reached of late). As I type this I hear the compressor has just started up and it's starting to very slowly cool again.

The 10C, will be quite short term, representing the internal air temperature - the stored contents, will remain much cooler, due to their mass.
 
Relevant to the ambient temperature I shouldn't wonder. The fridge will be working harder in these temps.
I was thinking the same, but the kitchen temps have been similar to today's for a while now (sometimes even warmer) and yet the defrost temp hasn't gone up so high.

Although over the years it has done this before, but not for some time and not to 10C (sometimes 8 or 9 instead).
 
Maybe I am being thick here, but can see why a freezer needs to defrost, but a fridge is 4ºC so should never be any frost, so why would it have a defrost cycle?

With my freezers, and fridge/freezer, I do put an energy monitor on them, and I do note the defrost cycle, and I have never worked out what triggers it, as there seems to be no regular cycle.
 
Maybe I am being thick here, but can see why a freezer needs to defrost, but a fridge is 4ºC so should never be any frost, so why would it have a defrost cycle?

A fridge working hard, can accumulate frost on the 'heat exchanger', but a combined fridge/freezer, frost free, will definitely need a defrost cycle.
 
A fridge working hard, can accumulate frost on the 'heat exchanger', but a combined fridge/freezer, frost free, will definitely need a defrost cycle.
This model doesn't have a freezer section Harry it's just an integrated fridge. So like Eric I am puzzled why it needs to defrost. The user guide says that moisture can form on the inner covers and run down into the evaporater tray but doesn't mention ice forming anywhere.
 
I have found, the motor runs for around 1/3 two 2/3 of the time with a good refrigeration unit, except for inverter drives where some regulate the speed of the motor, but with domestic even inverter drives regulate by switching on/off, the typical fridge/freezer uses around 70 watt on run, unless inverter drive 700 watt at start, and around 150 watt on the defrost cycle, so putting an energy monitor on the unit one can see how long the motor is running for, and how often any defrost element runs for.

92 kWh/annum / 365 = 253 watt/hours per day, so at 70 watt = 3.6 hours running per day, but the 70 watt is a guess, running on an energy monitor one should get a graph
1755415157182.png
this one is my battery charger, but it shows when there is a time when not running that the unit has not lost gas and is working as it should. If it has lost gas, it will not switch off, and one can see it has not switched off on the graph. The totals in this case my AC unit 1755415424192.png give one a good idea if still running using around the rated annual use.

I did have a small freezer which was not switching off, in fact still have it. The question then was, has it lost gas, or the insulation failed, or is it going too cold (thermostat failed) I did not have a thermometer which went down to -18ºC, but that is the freezing point of brine, so mixed salt and water so saturated, stuck it in freezer, and it froze solid, showing the thermostat at fault. I got a new thermostat and my brewing thermostat arrived, so could now measure, and it had been going down to -26ºC and with new thermostat the unit still being used today.

However unit cost around £100 and a refrigeration guy call out was £65 for first hour, plus parts, and more if over an hour, so even with a cheap repair, one has to ask at those prices is it worth it? Clearly if a motor had failed, cheaper to buy new. And although I could transport it easy, they seemed to only work out of a van, there was no premises I could take the unit to.
 
This model doesn't have a freezer section Harry it's just an integrated fridge. So like Eric I am puzzled why it needs to defrost. The user guide says that moisture can form on the inner covers and run down into the evaporater tray but doesn't mention ice forming anywhere.
Just to say that ice does form on the inner back panel prior to a defrost cycle.
 

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