Not necessary, no standard lightswitch dimmers require a neutral and never have.
Wonder what the 'N' stands for? I would agree British made dimming switches did not need neutrals, but not all switches don't required them.
To be frank I don't like the concept of forcing the installer to use one line supply, I know my 4 gang switch has two independent circuits, so the line feeds can't be combined it would cause a borrowed neutral. But the Moes switches are cheap, so are fitted by many DIY'er.
Pre the quartz light/CFL age I was into the whole idea of dimming switches, however they seemed to fail on a regular basis, mainly due to ionisation and poor quality bulbs not having the required built in fuse. As quartz came in we could no longer dim the bulb without it causing the envelope to go black causing premature failure, and CFL would not work with dimmer, so all mine removed, the continental method was a 1/3 and 2/3 split so three light levels, in places like Turkey where it gets rather warm they moved to CFL before us, so this was best option.
But as we moved to the LED age the ambiance created with the reddish light from the tungsten bulb when dimmed has been lost when using a dimmer switch, so the use of 'Smart' bulbs means the colour temperature can also be adjusted when the light is dimmed, in fact with some whole colour can be changed.
I went to 'Smart' switches as did not want to draw in more cables to get two way lamps, yes lazy, but having a remote control at the side of the bed worked well. However of the five I bought and fitted, today only two left in use, and the hassle of having to turn off power and swap a switch is not what I want.
So I have moved to 'Smart' bulbs in the main, this means if they go wrong, easy to correct by simply swapping a bulb. OK where a chandelier is used with many bulbs this gets costly, so still a place for the electronic switch, but fitting load capacitors to stop the lights flashing when switched off, and swapping bulbs around as shimmer is avoided by using 'Smart' bulbs.