Dimmer switch shenanigans

[zaarin_2003]

Hi,

My two gang (is that right?) dimmer switch broke, so I have attempted to replace it. The left dimmer controls the bathroom light and the right dimmer controls a stairwell light. There is also another plain, non-dimmer switch at the top of the stairs which also controls the stairwell light.

I attempted to replicate the writing in the existing, broken dimmer in the new dimmer, but it’s not working quite as it should. The bathroom light controlled by the left dimmer works fine, but the stairwell light is permanently on - it dims ok, but pressing the button only turns it off temporarily; no matter how long or how I press it the stairwell light reverts on. The switch at the top of the stairs which also controls the stairwell light no longer seems to work at all; up or down, the stairwell light remains stubbornly on.

I’m wondering if I wired the new dimmer incorrectly? I did notice the symbols on the old dimmer are different to the new one.

In the old one the brown wire went in C, the black went in L2 and the grey in L1.

The new dimmer is set up as shown. As I’m typing this I can see my mistake… the order of the wires is the same, brown, black and then grey, but they symbols in this dimmer are in a different order.

So, what is the tilde symbol? Is that the equivalent of C? If so, should it be brown in tilde, black in L2 and grey in L1?

If so, I’ve got all three in the wrong hole and am pleased I’m not dead.

Ta!!

Matt

 

[terryplumb]

Yes ,you are correct black in L2 ,grey in L1, and brown in the wavy line terminal ( which = com)

 

[robinbanks]

but pressing the button only turns it off temporarily

Have you ruled out the scenario where that particular knob has a mechanical problem (manufacturing defect) whereby it doesn't toggle?

You can check by transferring your wiring for the stair lighting to the dimmer that does the bathroom; you assert that this one works as expected

 

[ericmark]

It does seem the terminal on the LAP dimmer is COM, however one has to read the instructions, on my electronic switches the S terminal has to pair to another special electronic switch and they work as master and slave.

New electronic switches seem to need a load of 5 watt, this is the load when dimmed, so to turn down to half output it needs a 10 watt bulb. The problem is it needs to pass current though the bulb to work the switch, both on and off, as no neutral at the switch, I don't use dimming switches, but I do use electronic switches, and with some bulbs they will not switch fully off, and can have a shimmer when on, for on/off switches there are some that use a battery so work like any other on/off switch, but in the main where I want to dim the light a dimmer bulb seems a better option.

I have one stand alone in guest bedroom so anyone can use the remote to switch off light when in bed, in other rooms it connects to the wifi so use voice control in the main.