Dimplex Opti-Myst fires

Thank you again AlastairE. We now have a working Cassington once more. No faulty light bulbs, no faulty lamp holders, just the burnt out wires & connectors as previous photos.
Now I can show you the best photo of all, the fire working! Can't see flames very well but they are certainly there.
Couldn't ha
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ve done it without your help. cheers
 
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Hi can anybody help me please,my mum died and i now have her dimplex oakhurst i put water in the container and pluged fire in it lights up ok but turns off after 30 seconds any ideas please as to why its doing this.
 
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I'm not sure if the Oakhurst is basically the same workings as the Cassington but your problem is very different from the one I had.
Why don't you start a new thread so as to avoid confusion and hopefully someone will be able to help you
good luck
 
Yep, same problem as Debbie, and everyone else, with my Oakhurst. Had the transducer ( & complete fire) replaced by Dimplex on more than one occasion but now its not misting and out of warranty so its down to me to sort out. Was quite excited reading the previous posts to see the Maplin equivalent for £20.....then disappointed to find they've discontinued it. Surely someone is producing these items, Dimplex must get them from somewhere (before adding their 100+% markup). If anyone can confirm the rakuten item is suitable that would be fantastic.

Totally agree with everyone on here, the Optimyst feature is nothing but trouble and I really wish Id never bought this poor but expensive product.
 
Hi all,
I see that there's been no activity on this thread for a couple of weeks but hoping that AlistairE still checks this thread as he, or someone else, may be able to help me. In short I have a Dimplex Opti Myst fire that also has stopped creating mist and shuts off after 30 seconds, and checking it (after replacing the membrane), I found that there was no 24v supply to the mini fogger. Checking further I've found that the Eaglerise power supply is giving 24v to the control board (hence I get the beeps and lights etc), but no 24v coming back to the jack plug. Is this something that's seen before, and if so is it a replacement control board to fix it, or relay or whatever? Any ideas where and how much I could get the board? Presumably Dimplex. I've not tried removing and testing the board itself, simply because there's no doubt several necessary mains connections that have to be present, and difficult to achieve on the living room floor.
Anyway, here's hoping someone can help and thanks in advance.
 
I would like to thank all previous comments on here for saving me an absolute fortune. I have the Dimplex Optimist CGN20 and have owned it for nearly 4 years. Recently I noticed the flames were rather low and 2 days ago the flames stopped smoking completely.
After opening the base unit i noticed the membrane in the transducer was visually eroding badly. After unscrewing the transducer I removed the membrane with a screw driver and went to maplin and asked for the L41ak £3.49 replacement. It was virtually identical and I simply inserted the coin like disc into the rubber transducer and re fitted it. It works perfectly again and is better than ever!!!! All for less than £4. Result!! Very easy to do...
 
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Hi! I have been interested in the Opti-mist and how they work, I have made one of my own, it uses only a 24v 2.5amp max DC transformer,this is because I had one doing nothing, 4 x 5w 12v vehicle capless bulbs designed in a unit to give off enough heat for mist to rise, I am using 24v LED's red and amber, 1 x 24v transducer, (and you can buy these for just under £3.00) I have designed a different way of making the mist rise with a minimum of heat used, no need for high watage halogen bulbs, ON/OFF switch for the transducer, so can just have light, and with my design I can regulate the mist, I would like to talk to someone who is able to help me out with some electrical solutions as regards a circuit board, have a video but not able to uplaoad
 
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After-Sales--In common with most electrical Co's,-- from Dimplex these days is awful to appalling.

They really couldn't care less.

Once its out of that warranty, they'll charge you just exactly what they like, just the way things have gone in recent years. Its only ever gonna get worse--Unless the Law changes to Make them more responsible....

My usual repair fare is TV sets. Did you know the 'design-life' of a new TV set currently, is merely 18 Months?
--Used to be 6 years, and before that 8 years.

End Of Rant!

The Later type mist-makers--with the Orange water-tank can use the Maplin discs in Most cases.

The earlier grey type sump using the Blue water-tank however uses a different type, and this series needs modification for use of an alternative type disc.
--More often than not though, the electronic driver-board is the fault and needs rebuilding/upgrading for which I offer (on ebay) a repair-service.
 
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Having read all these threads, it would appear that I have been particularly lucky with my two year old Brookline BKL20 Optimyst fire. It has worked without any of the faults described by the numerous contributors to this forum, until about three weeks ago. I then had two of the lamp holders fail but, once replaced with a cheap set of (better quality) ebay items, the lamps have continued to function as expected.

I thought that, hopefully, this might be my only misfortune with the fire, until this weekend, after having carried out the regular two week cleaning procedure, I reassembled the components, only to find that when I tried to operate the fire I immediately got two beeps from it and absolutely nothing else; no lamps, no misting, no fan noise. Repeated attempts at trying to start it results in the same issue. Others have said that they have experienced a similar issue, but they get this result after 30 seconds, whereas my problem occurs immediately I try to switch the fire on.

It sounds like the audible warning it produces when it has run out of water, so am I correct in assuming that whatever senses that water is present in the sump, may have developed a fault, or is it more likely that a control board has decided not to work, despite functioning perfectly prior to my taking the components out for cleaning? Everything inside looks like it should do; no obvious burnt or damaged components. But it clearly has something wrong with it. If anyone can shed any light on the matter I should appreciate the feedback. This particular model has the grey sump and blue water tank, so is the older design apparently.
 
Might sound a stupid question--You did refill the water-tank and also connected the plug into the side of the sump correctly...?

Unplug and refit just to confirm its OK.

It has been known for the water level sensor to fail in the grey type. Check that the ring shaped white disc under the red cap on left-hand side of sump is floating and held up against the red cap.

--If it is, looks like the level-sensor has failed....
 
Thanks for your quick response AlastairE. And no, checking whether I had filled the water tank or connected the plug back into the sump was not a stupid question, as these are obviously vital elements that could have been easily overlooked. But I did, in fact, check these items at least three times as I attempted to ascertain what might be causing this issue. I even dismantled the sump to see if anything was amiss inside, hence my comments about everything looking OK inside. However, following your suggestion that I retry the plug to make sure that it was connected properly, which I did but to no avail, I realised that the only thing I hadn't checked was the plug itself. I wiggled the cable on the back of the plug and, lo and behold, the fire burst into action when I switched it back on.

This would rather suggest that there is a loose connection or a dodgy pin connection on the plug and socket, although unfortunately, I wiggled the cable quite rigorously, which caused everything to move about, including the sump, so a loose wire or suspect connection could be in any of the components affected by my frustrated heavy handedness when wiggling the cable about.

The fire is still working this morning, so whatever was not making properly, is clearly conducting today. But I least have a clue now as to what caused the fault, so I can now start a process of elimination to find which dodgy part is the culprit.

Many thanks again AlastairE for the feedback. Support from knowledgeable contributors are a godsend when unfamiliar things suddenly decide to go wrong.
 
After reading these threads, I have an optimist fire and there appears to be mist under the top unit (where the transducer sits) but it is not coming through? I've thoroughly cleaned the orange top unit that the water tank sits on and there seems no reason why the mist wouldn't be coming through?? Any ideas?
 

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