Diplomat adp8322 stopped working - no lights at all

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have checked and changed the fuse, seems to be power coming in to the machine, but no lights at all on any of the displays...is this pcb related ??
Have checked all the wiring etc, all seems to be intact, no brakes...
 
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traced the power lead and found the bit, voltage in & out, also found current into pcb...tested components on pcb with multi meter, found one which was u/s, replaced it, but still no joy with power or lights.... :(
 
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How did you test these components & which one did you change?
Post the service number on the door sticker, it should look something close to this 8545 000 15810.
 
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Hi Zipper, that was the service number. Checked all resistor seem to measure ok, none of the caps look blown. Not sure about the relays though, seems as though the switch is not closing (for both relays), but is this because the cycle is not running and these are controlled by the on board chip. Changed L001, but made no difference, any ideas? power seems to be getting all around the board the leds are showing voltage on both the anode and cathode which seems to suggest a problem with the control chip?
 
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There are only 2 components on the pcb that are relay controlled, the heater element & the wash pump. The remaining are fired by triacs & there should be 5 of them. If you have 230v to the pcb I suspect you may have popped a triac (perhaps secondary damage caused a by short). I rarely bother faultfinding down to component level, it doesn't pay unless you have a £300 Miele pcb to repair for a good customer. I think you'll be looking at a new board http://www.espares.co.uk/parts?k=481221838174 But just to be on the safe side I would check the integrity of the main electrical components to make sure one isn't shorted.
 
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Hi Zipper, have had pcb checked, all is ok on it, have checked pressure switch, this is working ok, what & how other components can be checked? appreciate your help thus far.
Forgot that 1 inch or so of water was left in the machine, Ie hadn't pumped out properly, would this indicate pump problems ?
 
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All LED's still dead, have checked door lock, got power on both sides, and get zero resistance on meter when door closed, so assume that is correct
 
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installed new pcb...no difference, double checked power to on/off switch on dishwasher, (blue wires) get 250v one side and only 212 the other side, is that right or should it be the same each side ??
 
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check there is a 230v supply to the pcb, if there is the pcb is defective.
I have no idea how you are trying to test this but the voltage on each side of the switch should be the same. The on/off button is a simple spring loaded 2 pole switch. L&N in from the suppressor (terminals TB)......and L&N out directly to the pcb (terminals CB). If you have 230v (L&N) at the pcb then the switch is ok. Even if the door micro-switch was defective it wouldn't blackout the program LED's, but it would prevent a cycle being initiated. What is the p/n of the pcb you bought? If there is indeed a high resistance contact in the switch you could confirm this by temporarily bypassing it.
 
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Hi Zipper
Went back and checked mains voltage coming in to interference filter, get readings of 215v on blue(neutral) and 245v on brown (live). These readings are also output on the dark blue wires out of the filter, and get same readings in and out of switch, also get the same readings into pcb. Just to make sure, replaced the filter and still got same readings. So by changing both the filter & pcb, still not getting any lights on pcb.
 
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That makes no sense....what are you measuring with & what are you measuring against?
 
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