DIY Garden Gate

[jimsym]

I need a garden gate, that can be locked from both sides, built on a low budget.

It doesnt need to be fort knox at all, but at least something to deter people using the side of our house as a short cut.

I have a width constraint of 120mm, which needs to incorporate the gate, plus a fence post which will be mounted on to the existing crude concrete floor.

Can anyone suggest what type of lock (and handle?) I would need?

Are there any kits (i.e. hinges etc) that come recommended?

 

[Burnerman]

Loads of stuff are available - depending on what you want to spend - but the cheap stuff is laughable quality.
A useful catch is Screwfix 22760 (not lockable) so maybe an oval pad bolt (54824) for minimal security. Bottom fitting 75650 is better.
For lightweight gates use a galvanised Tee hinge, or for heavier stuff hooks and bands are better.
Consider fixing the hanging post to the side of a building for good support.
I imagine the width constraint is actually 1200mm!
John

 

[jimsym]

Sorry I did mean 1200mm!

With regards to the oval pad bolt, how would this be locked/unlocked from both sides? Do you suggest spacing the slats in the gate large enough to fit a chain which can be reached from both sides?

 

[JohnD]

if you want to lock and unlock it from both sides, you really need a mortice lock or rimlock.

gates and their posts tend to move around a bit, so you need a long-throw bolt (the latest BS (20mm) would probably do), or a hook bolt as is used on sliding doors. Depends how much you want to pay. You can often buy second-hand locks with keys cheap on fleabay or freegle from people who have changed the lock or front door. I prefer a good brand like Chubb with brass levers and a thick case that withstands rust.

A rimlock is usually very cheap and insecure, and an undesirable can take the screws out if he can be bothered, but there are some good rimlocks used for utilities cabins, and you could secure it with coach bolts where the head of the bolt can't be unscrewed, and the nut on the other end can be recessed or concealed with a fingerplate or block of wood.

the very cheapest thing would be to fit a couple of mortice rackbolts, drilling the keyhole right through so the key can be used from either side. You only need a drill no fit them, no fancy chiselling out of a mortice.

If you can fix the posts to walls, or sink into the ground, they will be much better than if bolted to the floor. Putting a head or lintel to connect the tops of the two posts will add rigidity. This will stop the posts coming loose, and will also make it more difficult to force or lever the gate open.