DIY Pressure testing an old radiator ?

[mark.carline]

Is there anyway I can pressure test an old radiator myself ?

Whats involved and is there anywhere I can take it to ?

EDIT: Just found one of these :

http://www.hss.co.uk/g/68820/Pipe_Pressure_Tester.html

Will that do ?

 

[ollski]

Well yes sure that would test it if you capped the other end, but installing a 30 year old rad (unless its an old cast iron job) isn't going to come with any guarantees you will get more than a few months from it.

 

[mark.carline]

Well yes sure that would test it if you capped the other end, but installing a 30 year old rad (unless its an old cast iron job) isn't going to come with any guarantees you will get more than a few months from it.

Its an old ish radiator that I will be refitting some new TRVs to that matches the rest of the radiators in the house so I guess I should be ok.

see:

http://wantitnow.ebay.co.uk/Radiator-to-match-below_W0QQadidZ190004909960

I have managed to find a number at my local skip that exactly match the rest of the ones in the house.

Surely if I am using new TRVs etc then these radiators will last for a long while yet !???

 

[Slugbabydotcom]

I wouldnt go to that expense. Putting 3 bar of mains pressure would generally be adequate for my purposes but I suppose a more professional answer would be to suggest that you test it to higher than this 3 bar maximum pressure of a sealed system.
Try this for an idea. Go to your local tyre place and measure the size of the hole that a tyre [schraeder] valve fits through.. probably about 9 - 10 mm
Drill a compression cap end to the same size and ask them to pull a schraeder valve through it.
Using fittings connect this cap end to one end of the rad and seal off the other.
Stick the airline on to the valve and pump it up to at least 58psi which is 4 bar and more than you will need.
Search for leaks with a spray gun filled with soapy water.... look for the bubbles.

As it happens I have some 80 odd year old rads to fit tomorrow.
Can I be arsed with that ^^^ lot ?
No... But there is little to damage on this job yet. If a leak could cause some damage, say there were some valuable carpets or something where they were to be fitted then I would consider it

 

[mark.carline]

Putting 3 bar of mains pressure would generally be adequate for my purposes

Just what I was thinking about - I was going to try and connect my hosepipe to it overnight and then check it next day for any leaks.

Only thing is does anyone know what the difference is between mains pressure and a Baxi Platinum condensing combi boiler ? I am going to be getting my boiler / header tank / storage tank replaced by a baxi combi and I am a bit worried if the new system is going to have a higher pressure and show up some leaks that didnt show with the old system.

 

[ollski]

Putting 3 bar of mains pressure would generally be adequate for my purposes

Just what I was thinking about - I was going to try and connect my hosepipe to it overnight and then check it next day for any leaks.

Only thing is does anyone know what the difference is between mains pressure and a Baxi Platinum condensing combi boiler ? I am going to be getting my boiler / header tank / storage tank replaced by a baxi combi and I am a bit worried if the new system is going to have a higher pressure and show up some leaks that didnt show with the old system.

your mains pressure will be higher as it needs to pressurize the ch system. Even though the pressure will rise a touch when the ch is on with a properly set up new system it won't be much. These rads pinhole though where they rust from inside out, seems amazing to installing scrap onto a new system...but hey.

 

[mark.carline]

These rads pinhole though where they rust from inside out.

I see - I guess I should also be asking for an additive to be added when the new system is fitted:

http://www.diyfixit.co.uk/nflash/centralheating/CHCorrosion/Corrosion.htm

 

[ollski]

These rads pinhole though where they rust from inside out.

I see - I guess I should also be asking for an additive to be added when the new system is fitted:

http://www.diyfixit.co.uk/nflash/centralheating/CHCorrosion/Corrosion.htm

Definitely, but I would be even more concerned about the state of the system it has been running in since the mid 70's.

 

[mark.carline]

Definitely, but I would be even more concerned about the state of the system it has been running in since the mid 70's.

State of the system ?

All the rads in our house seem reasonable and over the past 3-4 years when I have decorated each of the rooms I have removed each radiator cleaned it up, repainted it and fitted new TRVs. All the horrible horrible compression joins have been replaced with lead free solder ring connections and all pipe work is copper. There has been little (if any) dirty water coming out of the radiators. I guess our water is not very corrosive (hard or soft water not sure which!?) and the radiators only needed bleeding when I have drained the system (air being the main source of corrosion).

Thankfully the old thing that looks dodgy (well more like a Darlick) is the large boiler and storage tank which will go when the combi gets fitted

 

[Slugbabydotcom]

A scenario is that mains pressure could only be 2 bar. When the boiler heats up this will increase. If there is a problem with the pressure vessel [undersized or just plain U/S] then this could increase to 3 bar where the PRV blows out the excess.
In other words make sure your household water pressure is up to scratch.
Attaching a dirty old rad to the mains could cause a water contamination issue so make sure you fit a non return valve in the test rig

 

[Agile]

It would be very dangerous to test your rad with compressed air as suggested as they can do a lot of damage when they explode, like killing you!

If you completely fill the rad with water and then pump it up it will be much less dangerous as only a small amount of compressed air will be present.

Tony

 

[Slugbabydotcom]

The amount of air in a rad is only about the same as a smallish motorbike tyre. I doubt it would kill you but what Tony has there is a valid point and it is safer practice. Plus you would be able to use a foot pump with a guage on it to test the pressure.

 

[doitall]

Ever seen a rad go up at 3bar, because I have and you wouldn't want to be in the same room.

Sounds like a machine gun as the pop rivets give way

Water test the rads to 1.5 times the working pressure, including the pipework if your converting to a sealed system.

The products of air exploding will kill, do not treat it lightly.

 

[mark.carline]

Thanks guys.

I connected it to mains pressure last night and it works like a dream.

Can you close this thred now ?

Thanks

Mark.