DIY PV solar panels fitting, laws and house value

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Hi,
I'm interested in 'green' energy, and Solar panels.
Previously I bought some solar panels for my van, from a wholesaler, and was thinking about fitting them on my house myself, for simple use.
After reading about other peoples experiences, with inverters, and shadows on one panel affecting the whole system etc, I am thinking about leaving them separated, so they output low voltage and each either charge a battery, or heat up storage heater bricks.
I have also heard that they affect house insurance and possibly house prices.
Has anyone got experience in this type of installation, please?
Cheers. Camerart.
 
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Panels for a van and a house set up are totally different.
 
Panels for a van and a house set up are totally different.
Hi O and R,
I'm thinking about experimenting. I'll have the wires from each panel to connect to whatever I choose. I did similar in the van. I have 2x panels, charge managers, and batteries, with a switch to choose which one.

Leaving them separate, allows me to check the shaded panels output voltage, so I can manage it.
C
 
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Hi,
I spoke to a roofer today, and he said it is easy to fit the fitting brackets.

I asked about insurance problems and selling price, has anyone had experience with either?
C
 
You might be thinking of "rent-a-roof" panel schemes which can add complications to conveyancing.
As panels are straightforward enough to add or remove, if there really was a significant impact on value then you would simply remove them before selling, right?
 
There is actually very little preventing you from doing a self install, but a few things to consider

- you will need an electrical certificate and part p notification for the electrical side
-from experience most insurers only want to know you’ve had it fitted, they aren’t too concerned who fitted it
- you won’t be eligible for an MCS cert if you self install and therefore can’t get an export tarrif (again not really an issue, especially if you integrate batteries into your system)

And this one is an absolute must

Notify your DNO of the connection in accordance with their rules

- Systems up to 3.68kw can be connected and then notified (G98)
- Systems over 3.68 kw you will need to put in a G99 application and wait up to 3 months for approval. You may have to fit an approved export limiter or pay for network upgrades

Don’t be tempted to avoid this last part, as it seems some installers are doing, I recently was involved in a job where the installers had tried to circumvent the rules and a G99 install was fiddled on paperwork to be notified as a G98.
However it was a semi rural location with some aged infrastructure and the PV install caused some voltage problems for neighbouring customers. I can’t say too much as it’s ongoing but It did see the offending customers property disconnected from the pole in the road until they agreed to decommission the system they’d had installed!
 
Hi W and J,
I've never heard of 'rent a roof'

There will be no connection to anything apart from 'Panel to either battery or heater' a number of times, so I doubt I have to notify anybody, but I'm not sure. Nice and simple (??!!)

I assume there is probably some assurance needed
that the panels don't fall on anyone.
C
 
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Ah sorry maybe i misunderstood, am I to take it this is not a grid connected system? In which case yes, just cover yourself regarding the security of the panels and suitability of the roof to take the additional weight (plus allowances for wind loading) otherwise crack on
 
Two installs I am thinking about, one on a caravan site in Wales many years ago when the local village was still on a diesel generator 110 volt DC it charged batteries and lit the ablution blocks at night, actually worked well, wind not solar, were not into solar back in the 50's, but it was enough, however today we have solar powered outside lights and they are a bit useless in the main, clearly designed for the South and in Mid Wales where I live, in the heart of winter even with a PIR the charging is not enough.

The other was the Falklands, most farms used small generators, 3.5 kVA was enough to power a farm house, but not the shearing shed, so there was a 12 kVA option as well, but come bed time and the generator was switched off, candles are a fire hazard, so 12 or 24 volt lighting was a good idea, often a combination of wind and solar, and the one I set up had a bank of Nickel Iron batteries out of a bus, so not being fully recharged was not a problem, it would have been with lead acid, being DC we could use diodes, so each bedroom light was connected also to hall, so if a guest left a light on the hall light would also be lit, so farmer was aware it had been left on, and main reason for turning on light was to go to loo, so want the hall light on as well.

I also connected up a charger for when generator was running, and it was working well.

In the UK both caravans and narrow boats try using solar and wind to maintain their batteries, in both cases they do from time to time have shore/site power to top up the batteries, the panels or wind chargers are easy to access for maintenance, and I would say a caravan or narrow boat forum is the place to visit, no point re-inventing the wheel.

But it is nothing new, I remember being shown the cellar in a farm house full of glass jar type lead acid batteries, which were charged from the generator so the electric lights worked 24/7 even when the generator was not running, from the number likely it was 110 volt DC, but this was in an era when we did not use so much electric as today, the Milk Float of course, so we did have EV's, same with forklift, but in the home cooking was solid fuel, as was heating, no TV or computers, so today that 3.5 kVA generator would likely not be enough.

My son tried it on the cheap with a narrow boat, the 3 kVA with 6 kVA peak inverter did not last long before expensive blue smoke came out of it, so yes there are some cheap inverters, but they can work out expensive. And 3 kVA at 12 volt = 250 amp, you need some large cables for that, I used two 16 mm² in parallel as 25 mm² to hard to get through the boat, I considered since powered by three 120 Ah batteries it could not run for that long to over heat as batteries would fail.

Using 24 or 48 volt would have been better, but you need to look at what is available, 36 volt and 48 volt batteries are used in e-bikes, but can you get an inverter for those voltages. Also better not lead acid as if left discharged it can sulphate, but the newer batteries have special needs for charging, even Nickel Iron was a problem, but they seemed to work OK, not sure if still made, but new very expensive, the ones I used came out of a bus.

I found less 24 volt stuff to 12 volt, so used a centre tapped three wire system, so could use both 12 and 24 volt stuff, lights were the fluorescents out of the bus.

But to use both wind and solar one needs space with access, be it your roof, or garden, the small holding in the Falklands that I worked on had 20,000 acres if some thing went wrong, unlikely to hurt anything, as 4 acres per sheep, not like UK with 4 sheep per acre. And yes my wind charger did destroy its self, but 120 MPH winds were normal.
 
Hi J and E,
This is obviously quite technical, e,g, is it better to have higher voltage or simply what each panel supplies, for efficiency. I can look into this.

As mentioned if each panel cable terminated inside the house, I can experiment as I wish, and as other suggestions crop up.
I'm fairly good at electronics and electrics, so relays for serialing them up etc on cloudy days can be explored.

The main and first thing is to make sure once they're on the roof, I don't have to go up there again, even if one of them packs in, it can be cut out, until convenient, but I need to make sure that there are no legalities, insurance or other things, that i find out later.

Once installed, the experiments can be endless, but I aim to get the simplest sytem if possible to simply make use of the main source of sunlight from my otherwise fairly dark property.

Caravan and boat sites will be interesting to go to as mentioned.
C
 
If shadowing is an issue then run them in parallel. Shadowing only effects series strings (assuming no bypass diodes are fitted to the panels). This assumes your load/MPPT can take that amount of current.
 
If shadowing is an issue then run them in parallel. Shadowing only effects series strings (assuming no bypass diodes are fitted to the panels). This assumes your load/MPPT can take that amount of current.
Hi S,
No, shadowing is not a problem.
As for load MPPT, I'm not considering anything like that at the moment, we'll see what develops.
As for my van wiring, see #4.
C
 
I would love to have a panel with a satellite tracking motor as used for amateur radio to see how directional they are. There is so much miss-information, who does one believe?

I know we had a 30 watt wind charger or a 10 watt solar panel as the two options to power an electric fence, with a car type battery. And the sheep got through the wind charger powered fence more that the solar powered fence, as only snow stopped solar working during the day, but even in the Falklands known for wind, the batteries went flat more often with a wind charger.

However the small using used to maintain the caravan battery when in storage failed. OK there was a problem with the radio, if power removed and restored the radio went into demo mode, so once the battery voltage dropped once, that is it, the radio ensured it would never recharge it.
 
Hi S,
No, shadowing is not a problem.
As for load MPPT, I'm not considering anything like that at the moment, we'll see what develops.
As for my van wiring, see #4.
C
I was replying to this bit of your original post "and shadows on one panel affecting the whole system etc". Get them south facing nearest to 35 degrees and they should make some decent power. If in parallel it doesnt matter if one is shaded as it doesnt effect the output of the other panel.
 

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