DMX Lighting?

[unclebob1]

Just found this on AV forums... Think if i go with that, i can hide everything, psu, pi and a few things i havent thought of yet, in that gap, inc speakers as the poster has done on that thread!

https://www.avforums.com/threads/normal-lounge-wife-friendly-home-cinema.1860328/

Is the diamensions he used, based on hiding a projector screen in it! Will see if that works for me!

 

[oldbutnotdead]

I'd be a bit worried about that lot staying on the wall- MDF is quite heavy and there's a lot of leverage on that poor little bit of roofing batten. Maybe some beefier wall brackets- or give it a try and see what happens.

Think when you acquire a couple of the strips it would be worth faking up a section of pelmet as well- with a 40mm throw to the ceiling you might not get the light spread you're after (oh yeah, you've already planned that, silly me). Ceiling height determines how much of the wall behind the pelmet can be seen (and thus can't be filled with gubbins)- at 2600 ceilings even with the nearly flush upstand there'd be room at the back for bits and bobs, at 2300 you'd be on thin ice. The more upstand you have (or the deeper the base is) the more room you get. A deep pelmet would knacker your skylights- best stashing the ket for them on the east wall I reckon. Are you going to step the pelmet or run it continuous (another one to test- you'll get very different spread if you change the throw from 40mm to 340mm!)

And good spot from bernardgreen on the copper tape- I've used that stuff for induction loops before (ideal for retrofit in carpeted areas), for an auditorium it gets a bit pricey but for a few metres it ain't so bad.

Your project is much more fun than mine.....

 

[bernardgreen]

and if there is enough space, may even get the pi in there...

Not a good idea as you will find out when you want to alter the program in the Pi. Also that arangement will collect dust and the Pi may get a bit hot when covered with a blanket of dust.

 

[unclebob1]

Bernard - in terms of the program - this 99% of the time will be via network over ssh, but dust is a concern.

oldbutnotdead - most defo would not leave 12mm mfd on a small button - most likely i'd put additional strapping or corner brackets if i do it this way, Will be ordering a couple of 5m lengths today and mount them on a test pulmet to play with effects and design, and amend the dimensions above accordingly.

The ceiling is sloped, then a beam in the middle and then the existing ceiling, so will have a number of differing heights. I'm thinking - ie will need to trail - sloped in the extension to keep with the roof line, then level in the existing room... but all of this will be trial and error for appearance.

skylight ones will most likely end up with psu on east wall, and run 3 * 2.5mm through the ceilings, along with cat5 for the lights themselves. Pi/signal repeater then sitting in the pulmet... Ideally only thing seen in the skylight would be a small overhang of say 30mm of plaster board for the led strip to sit on, nothing else.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Good luck with sorting out the levels- linking the ceilings sounds as if it'll be a right faff.

 

[unclebob1]

Most defo will be... will have to have a play with few lengths of timber and see what looks decent once kitchen cupboards are in or at least the level of the cupboards are in. Things would have been much simpler if the neighbor didn't complain about the 6m extension and i'd got a level roof!

 

[SimonH2]

Power wise, you don't want to be distributing that sort of power at low voltage. It can be done, but you end up with silly thick cables.
One way round the voltage drop is to use remote sensing on the PSU, so the PSU output is raised to compensate - but that can only provide the right voltage at one point.

If you can, then POL (Point of Load) PSUs or converters is the way to go. Probably cheapest to use main-low voltage PSUs, alternatively aim for something higher than 12V - using 24V will halve your current, using 48V will quarter it.