Do I Have to Skim Aquapanel?

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Got a question for any experts that are willing to share their advice.

I'm in the process of rebuilding a shower cubicle to replace the old one that disintegrated like soggy cardboard along with the chipboard flooring (wet weetabix) in my 5 year old house.

Don't want any chance of a repeat occurance so I am using aquapanel rather than plasterboard then I will tank it before tiling.

I have read a lot of posts that insist that aquapanel should be skimmed with tile adhesive prior to tanking.

Can anyone tell me why this is? The Dunlop tanking kit I will be using says it is suitable for use on cement/fibre boards. Skimming and then tanking and then tiling will mean that the new tiling will not sit flush with the rest of the room.

If there's a good reason why I have to then I will, as I said I don't want to take any chances, but Dunlop don't mention it as a requirement.

Hope someone can help.

Cheers
 
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Just tank plasterboard; it's a total waste of time tanking aquapanel - it's like painting tar on a Gore Tex coat!
Tanking plasterboard is, in my opinion, the best way to go.
 
I'm in the process of rebuilding a shower cubicle to replace the old one that disintegrated like soggy cardboard along with the chipboard flooring (wet weetabix) in my 5 year old house.
Why did it leak?

Is the floor bouncy? Or the walls wobbly?

Don't want any chance of a repeat occurance so I am using aquapanel rather than plasterboard then I will tank it before tiling.

I have read a lot of posts that insist that aquapanel should be skimmed with tile adhesive prior to tanking.
In that case you've been reading some b*llocks written by people who don't know what they're doing.

Dunlop don't mention it as a requirement.
There's yer answer.

Always follow the MIs.
 
I have read a lot of posts that insist that aquapanel should be skimmed with tile adhesive prior to tanking.
In that case you've been reading some b*llocks written by people who don't know what they're doing.
http://194.223.92.131/pdf/Technical...hnical Data Sheets/Bal_WP1_Tanking_System.pdf
"Apply a skim coat of a BAL cement-based adhesive modified with BAL-ADMIX AD1, prior to tanking."

Just one the benefits of using tanked plasterboard. ;)
 
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http://194.223.92.131/pdf/Technical%20Data%20Sheets/B%20&%20C%20Technical%20Data%20Sheets/Bal_WP1_Tanking_System.pdf
"Apply a skim coat of a BAL cement-based adhesive modified with BAL-ADMIX AD1, prior to tanking."
Hm. I guess it depends on whether you consider Aquapanel to be a "FIBRE CEMENT SHEET BACKGROUND", or a "FIBRE MESH REINFORCED CEMENT FACED TILE BACKER BOARD".

I still favour WBP over plasterofparisboard, but Hardiebacker has them both beat. ;)
 
Hi Alrob. I've done loads of shower cubicles,baths etc. and the method that seems foolproof, well it certainly works for me is. 1. make sure the floor is solid. 2. screw aqua panel/ hardi backer board to the wall studs, making sure they go down to the floor. 3.stick the shower tray in with loads of good quality clear silicone. 4. When dry tile onto backer board using a good quality adhesive, make sure theres a gap between the tiles and the tray about 2mm (spacer thickness) 5. when everything is fully dry , grout. and when that's dry run a small bead of silicone around the gap between tiles and tray, and maybe up the wall where two tiled walls meet.
It's fairly simple and very effective, just don't be shy with the clear silicone, pile it on, and scrape it off.
good luck
 
1. make sure the floor is solid.
2. screw aqua panel/ hardi backer board to the wall studs, making sure they go down to the floor.
3. stick the shower tray in with loads of good quality clear silicone.
4. When dry tile onto backer board using a good quality adhesive, make sure theres a gap between the tiles and the tray about 2mm (spacer thickness)
5. when everything is fully dry , grout. and when that's dry run a small bead of silicone around the gap between tiles and tray, and maybe up the wall where two tiled walls meet.
Spot on. :D
 

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