Do I replace my 18yr old back boiler

[moneypenny]

I have a Glow-Worm gravity fed back boiler unit with a Fireblaze 2 fire front, the fire looks good and system works fine approx 18/19 years old.

New pump fitted 18 months ago and complete set of replacement ceramics for the fire effect in the loft. (These are now obsolete so bought them before supplier ran out) The hot water tank is vented.

I am getting quotes for a new bathroom and the plumbers seem to favour the more efficient boilers: There isn't enough height from the water tank for a reasonable pressure need mains water supply etc.

My existing electric shower is rubbish and I would have to have a new electric cable run up from the meter which could be awkward.

I suppose the pros for keeping existing boiler is: reliability, low maintenance costs, with several options for hot water in the unlikely event of a breakdown.

Cons would mean: Pumped shower from the hot water tank, which would have to be kept hot even during times of low demand (my family have flown the nest) the run off from the tank in the loft to get hot water in the kitchen means litres of water are getting wasted several times a day. Turning off rads upstairs when only water is required, and when will other parts become obsolete. Every time it is serviced I get warning notice issued about no debris plate and chamber sealed with Rockwool.

However, the new energy efficient boilers seem to be getting a bad press with regards to reliability, and my back boiler goes on and on with just an annual service.

Any food for thought to help me make a decision would be helpful New bathrooms don't come cheap and I won't be doing it again, need to get it right.

 

[moneypenny]

OOOPS! Just found a year old thread asking pretty much the same question.

Seems the jury is still out even amongst gas engineers.

 

[dcawkwell]

You can have mains pressure hot water by installing an unvented hot water tank. This will replace your existing hot water tank.
You existing boiler will happily heat it with only a minor change to the piping.
You can then remove your cold water header tank from the loft.
This is provided you have good mains cold flow and pressure. But this would apply if you were considering a combi.

I would keep the old boiler and go for an unvented cylinder.

Forget the efficiency worries. The old boiler will replay by never breaking down. Well maybe once every 30 years if you are unlucky.

 

[longdogs]

I had a glow-worm with fire blaze and it went on and on for 20 years with no problems. When we re-designed the living room we deciced we wanted to change the fire and also went for and Ideal Evo combi boiler. We have had it about three years and I have already changed the circuit board and now need to change the diverter valve. Luckily I am able to do this myself but parts are not cheap.

If you are happy with the look of the fire, I would say stick with what you have until you have a problem and HAVE to change.

Fitting a pumped shower is not a difficult job and will serve you well so long as you buy a decent pump. Or, as suggested, go for a new cylinder.

 

[onlyfitidealboilers]

In a nut shell yes

 

[petit_pablo]

went for and Ideal Evo combi boiler.

oh dear

 

[moneypenny]

Thanks guys.

The unvented cylinder sounds a good option. The cylinder we have is too big anyway, and even If we did change the boiler I would have hoped to have been able to decommision the old one and keep the existing fire. It looks just like the electric ones that are part of the new energy efficient baxi back boiler.

Water presure used to be exceptional but it dropped a few years ago don't know why still pretty good though. I understood a water meter can reduce pressure sometimes.

When we moved into this house in 72 a glow-worm back boiler was fitted, we had it 22 years and it never let us down only changed it because it had the old wooden surround wall mounted fire and wanted to update.

 

[Whitespirit66]

Thanks guys.

The unvented cylinder sounds a good option. The cylinder we have is too big anyway, and even If we did change the boiler I would have hoped to have been able to decommision the old one and keep the existing fire. It looks just like the electric ones that are part of the new energy efficient baxi back boiler.

Water presure used to be exceptional but it dropped a few years ago don't know why still pretty good though. I understood a water meter can reduce pressure sometimes.

When we moved into this house in 72 a glow-worm back boiler was fitted, we had it 22 years and it never let us down only changed it because it had the old wooden surround wall mounted fire and wanted to update.

You're doing the right thing by keeping your BB serviced (cleaned) annually. This will help it's survival.

Can't see the point of the new BBs, with elec front. I would rather have a heat-only boiler and a nice gas fire any day.

If you update your cylinder now, you can always heat it with a heat-only boiler in the future if the BB dies. You wouldn't have to have a combi.

 

[noddy997]

never replace an old boiler, unless it packs up ofcourse.

They too reliable. New ones are rubbish and all gimmicky especially the combis. My old glow worm was 30 years old packed up finally, got a new cheap make it died in 2 years, then got a second one died within 3 years, on a vaillant now its lasted 3 years without a problem.

Old boilers FTW!!

 

[moneypenny]

In the installation guide for my Glow-Worm56/2F BBU it says 'This boiler can be used on an unrestricted open vented system with gravity hot water' (which is what I have) or a fully pumped vented system.

It also says A kit and instructions, Part No. 426520 is available to enable the back boiler to be used on a 'sealed water system'. Is this the same as the unvented system you are talking about? Done a search online for this part No. not surprised to find it unavailable so far.

I know very little about plumbing as you must have already gathered, but I assume on a sealed system some sort of valve will have to be fitted or the roof gets blown off!

 

[Whitespirit66]

No, it's not the same as the unvented hw cylinder.

That water that flows through your rads and the coil inside your hw cylinder (this isn't the same water that comes out your hot taps) are an open circuit, hence the vent over the small tank in loft. A sealed system does away with the vent and the small tank.

You can just replace the cyl you have now with the unvented version, but keep the circuit from boiler to your rads and cyl as an 'open vented' circuit.

 

[moneypenny]

OK Thanks.

Because the research I have just done on converting to a sealed water system is that the extra pressure could cause all sorts of problems on an old system with leaks etc.

My radiators have all been replaced with TVR's but my pipe work is pre metric and half of my rads are original.

We don't have a problem with scale in this area, suppose this would be a good time to have it flushed.

So....... plumber coming tonight and I suppose my options are:

Pumped shower
New electric cable for 10kw shower
Convert to unvented cylinder
New boiler
Keep turning round under the old shower to get wet until it eventually dies or I do.

Thanks a lot, I am wiser now than 2 days ago, brilliant.