Dodgy bodge job?

[mcpathetic]

Putting boards down in the attic- I noticed a cabling for the main upstairs lighting circuit has a connector in it, the kind I usually see on a lamp/ extending flex for some appliance/ laptop etc. The best picture I can find of that kind of thing is this: http://www.e-lectricalshop.co.uk/in-line-13a-cable-connector---free-delivery-116-p.asp

This looks a bit like a bodge job to me to connect wires: should I change this for something else? (junction box? what's the best/ safest thing?) It must have been there a few years since previous owners, but it's made me uneasy.

Grateful for advice on what to do/ check/ use (not great on electrics, but willing to give it a go)

Cheers

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

When you have finished putting down your attic boards, will this joint be easily accessible, for any future inspection and testing?
If it is or you can provide a trap door of some kind, above the junction it will be fine for a lighting circuit.
If it will not be an accessible joint, it is best not done in a standard junction box, as the requirements ask for it to be mechanically strong. So solder, weld, braze or compression.
There is often some debate on the best method to acheive this, the product that is available on the market for easy termination is the ashley junction box, this is available in varrious amp ratings, so can be suitable for most circuits.
Links
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/DataSheets/Hager/JB_Guide.pdf

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ASJ804.html

 

[mcpathetic]

Thanks for the info.

will this joint be easily accessible

It can be made to be accessible: I can leave a gap/ something similar.

If it is or you can provide a trap door of some kind, above the junction it will be fine for a lighting circuit.

So you mean (ensuring I leave some sort of access) I need to change the current fitting for a junction box? What amp rating should I be going for (is there a standard for lighting?) I see the one you linked to is 20amp - is that what I should pick? Can't get to tlc, but will have to head to bandq/ wickes tomorrow.

Thanks for the advice - much appreciated.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

It should be made accessible so in the future it can be inspected and tested, this will help during PIR(periodic inspection reports) and any faulty finding that maybe needed on the circuit. So make access suitable for that purpose.
If you intend to leave no access to the joint, it will need to be jointed correctly a standard junction box will not do. As I mentioned the "Ashley Maintenance Free Junction Boxes" I linked, is an option for a Diyer.
The 20Amp will be more than a enough on a lighting circuit and 32Amp for socket-outlet.

 

[OwainDIYer]

It's not what one would expect to be used, but maybe it's what was available on the van on the day ...

Provided the sheathing continues inside the connector shell and is clamped, and the terminations inside the connector are sound, there's no reason why it shoulnd't be safe.

If you are boarding over it leave an access hatch.

 

[mcpathetic]

Thanks all. Will get a junction box and connect with that, and will make sure there's decent access.

Cheers

 

[bathjobby]

Check where both ends of the cable go. If they are between ceiling roses (as opposed to maybe the supply emerging from an inaccessible place) then merely replace the cable and connector with one continuous piece of cable between the roses, as it should have been.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Check where both ends of the cable go. If they are between ceiling roses (as opposed to maybe the supply emerging from an inaccessible place) then merely replace the cable and connector with one continuous piece of cable between the roses, as it should have been.

good call!