Mine has a key on both sides.
I think you mean a locking latch, operated by key from both sides.
Are the comments above referring to the same type of lock and if so, is it the type pictured in post #12? If so, that one seems to need a handle, which I definitely don't want. I did a quick search for 'locking latch' but didn't find anything relevant.
I also searched Chubb 3R35 and couldn't find an example of a handle-less version and in any case, they do seem to be quite expensive.
Fitted using security screws to prevent removal .
Is a 'security' screw just the same as a normal screw but with an uncommon head that can be easily removed by a cheap tool bought online? I did come across these latches during my search, but can't remember why I dismissed them now. Maybe I was unsure if the 70mm thickness of the door was just a recommendation or a requirement. I would assume a recommendation and the only issue would be that the barrel would just be sticking out quite a bit (the gate is only 25mm thick). This option would have to be welded, but is definitely a consideration if the above 'locking latch' is too expensive.
A cheaper one is the Union HD72.
This also sounds a viable option.
In your case, you simply fit it with a keyhole on both sides, and no handle.
If I fit it without a handle, will it still lock when the gate is closed without a key? The PDF linked to says the below.
Cylinder to latch functionality.
Deadlocking Nighlatch function from the inside:
Latch bolt withdrawn by either the lever handle or the
cylinder key/turn
When the door closes and the snib comes into contact
with the strike the latch is deadlocked
Deadlocking Nightlatch function from the outside:
Latch bolt withdrawn by the cylinder key to unlock the
door
When the door closes and the snib comes into contact
with the strike the latch is deadlocked and a key must
be used for reentry
If I do decide to go ahead with the mortice deadlock I bought, would using screws/bolts with a nylon washer nut for the plate be a suitable option or are there any better ideas? It doesn't need a special box or case, a simple metal plate screwed/welded at the front and back would do the job. The gate is about 25mm wide, but the lock is only about 12mm, so I think would be suitable.
Ideally, I would like to be able to replace the lock easily if/when it fails. Obviously, anything involving welding will make this difficult but I don't mind having to unscrew a mortice lock. I would assume a Euro cylinder would be easiest.
Can you fit a mortice lock?
I can fit one but would have to hire somebody to cut/drill the metal gate.
Thank you for all the advice.