Door casing width, what size?

[Chapster]

hi everyone,

My partner has just been done over by builders she got in to do big works in her house, and now she’s out of money and has a home with children that is virtually unliveable. I’m trying to help all I can to make it better for now, but I’m an electrician and need some advice please.

Amongst many issues in the property from the substandard building work, the new door frames that have been fitted by the “builders” are the same width as the timber used to create the stud walls in which they fit. This means that now plasterboard has been put either side of the stud walls, the plasterboard sticks out beyond the edge of the casings by the plasterboard thickness each side, and there will be plaster added to the wall thickness after she can afford in the future to get plasterers in.

Is this normal and one is expected to buy thin strips of wood to tack to the frame edges to bring them out flush with where the skim coat will come out to? Or should the casings protrude a few mm beyond the plasterboard either side?

Thanks for any advice.

 

[foxhole]

Door linings should be built to accommodate plasterboard and skim leaving all flush.
You could build out as you suggest but would be visable , if you can afford to loose a bit of door width you could add secondary lining to correct width which would be hidden by architrave .

 

[Adam182]

Its not normal to have to do it because you would plan ahead to accommodate for Plasterboard + Skim but adding extra strips of wood to build out the casing is the solution. I had to do it during my current renovation because the bricks walls were a lot thicker and any door casing available, I had the benefit of being able to set one side at the correct depth meaning I only had to build out the opposite side though.

By the sounds of it yours will require building out on both sides (unless you can reposition the casings) so you will also have to add extra wood to the door stop section aswell or the door will sit too deep and hit the extra wood you've added when opened.

My method when attaching the extra wood was to glue and screw working my way from one end to the other holding the wood flush with the existing casing as I went along. Ideally you want to finish with the casing 2 - 3mm proud of the plasterboard to allow for skim.

 

[Notch7]

Extra wide stops, that finish flush with the plasterboard will sort out one side.

If they are made 25mm thick, then the otherside could have a 12mm thick strip of wood added and make door narrower.

What sort of Numpty tack plasterboard over a liner.

 

[Chapster]

Hi,

Thanks for the responses.

Due to the state the so-called builders left the house in, and the need to make it more like a home fast (3 children there too), my partner has opted for new casings which I will then fit.

Managed to find some rebated casings online after lots of searching, seems hard to find ones for 35mm thick doors that are 838mm wide, and for a reasonable price.

The men who did this are numpties through and through. They plastered some of the new stud walls they actually bothered plaster-boarding before they’d had all her money and then left, with a quickly applied single coat of multi finish, and it’s so bad it’d be laughable if not so tragic. I’m not a plasterer but can do a far better job. Honestly looks like a child has done it. So fitting 100mm liners on walls they built with 95mm CLS timber and 12.5mm plasterboard either side is not surprising for us.

Could only find 131mm deep casings which would require thick coats of plaster so might have to reduce by 5mm. If anyone wants to see just how bad a job they’ve done, I can post some pics.

 

[Gerrydelasel]

If you cut away the plasterboard from around the door casing by 3 inches or whatever, then you can fit architrave directly to the door casing as usual, and use filler to finish the ragged join between architrave and wall, assuming you buy architrave that is more than ~15mm thick of course. (After all, architrave was traditionally fitted before skimming anyway). But it does mean you need plinth blocks for the skirting to terminate onto, but they're easy enough to make.